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Unsorted Routes:

The Goat 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eds. sorry this one has been done before
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: ET on Oct 18, 2003

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  • Description 

    It's hard to believe no one has climbed this before, but there were no traces, nor is it listed anywhere. It should at least be posted.

    The climb is located on the northwest corner of the lower buttress (the one Huston's Crack is one). The climb is between the small pine tree (to the left) high on the wall, and the large pine tree (to the right) growing very close (2 feet) to the wall.

    Climb a 10ft finger crack which ends in an open book. The crack inside of the open book splits (one to the left, one to the right) just below the overhang. Do whatever you need to to follow the left crack out onto the east face (crux) (basically climb to the small tree) When you get to the tree go right and under that tree to summit. Take easy terrain to the belay point

    This climb would be a great way to start East Edge, instead of just scrambling up.

    Protection 

    This route can either be done trad or top rope. Trad will need cams to 2" Toprope by scrambling up as if going to East Edge and rig up the anchor as far out as you feel comfortable


    Comments on The Goat Add Comment
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    By Micahisaac
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 1, 2008

    Good route, but scary walk off. I would really love to try this route straight up instead of going left towards the tree. Does anyone have any beta? Seems like a pretty cruxy move(s) with zero gear and a potential fall on to a ledge (and then the ground).

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