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The Glue Fairy (Under The Gun) 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pete Zoller
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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This is an interesting route -- it was modified, with some fairly liberal gluing (a piece or two of talus mounted to the wall) but the glue dried up and the rocks fell off, returning the route to its natural state of very hardness.

It is one route left of Dumpster Barbecue and travels out the horizontal roof on pockets to a desperate lip encounter and the former home of the glue-rocks. I'm not sure if the route has been freed since the rocks fell off, but it would definitely go, for someone . . . any takers?


8 quickdraws.

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By Luke Childers
Jan 9, 2009
rating: 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Yeah, I think the glued holds are gone. I was on this thing a while back (by mistake if you can believe it). Anyway I did not send, but I did climb the line from the lip crux to the anchors. I could be wrong, but I don't recall pulling on any glued hold pulling the lip. No matter, it's still kind of a steep dud.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Oct 17, 2011

The name is actually "Under the Gun", after a Sisters of Mercy song.

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