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The Glory Hole

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Tip S 
Case Dismissed S 
Cherry Picker S 
Conspicuous Bulge S 
Devil's Dominion S 
Happy Trails S 
Henchman, The T 
Hibachi S 
Mad Hatter T 
Mineshaft S 
Overhung S 
Spooky Hollow S 
Tootsie Pop S 
Wayback Machine T 

The Glory Hole Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.857, -123.7113 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,304
Administrators: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Lurker on Jul 21, 2014
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A portion of The Glory Hole, Land of the Lost

Description 

Shade most of the day. A handful of 5.11 routes. Longer than most of the other LOTL offerings.

Getting There 

From the main parking (Pinch Me Wall, Snag Crag, etc.) head east along the ridge through shrubby but open terrain for ~15 minutes. Inobvious until you're on top of the crag, hike around left or right to the base.

Climbing Season

For the Land of the Lost area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Glory Hole

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Glory Hole:
Case Dismissed   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Glory Hole

Featured Route For The Glory Hole
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the Henchman gear start with the roof ...

Devil's Dominion 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  California : Redwood Coast : ... : The Glory Hole
This is one sweet route once you figure out the incredibly technical beta. It begins with The Henchman's gear start and continues up an incredible yet frustrating roof (V7+) and then finishes with 40' of fun 5.8-5.9 with a little challenge just before the anchors. Very tricky beta, tenuous yet delicate power moves, did I mention hard beta? If it feels horrible, keep working on that beta. The roof has fixed draws placed close enough to keep you from swinging into the ledge below. I've...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of The Glory Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Matt's project (5.10a)
 2. Conspicuous Bulge (5...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Matt's project (5.10a) 2. Conspicuous Bulge (5...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower half of the routes left of center on the Glo...
Lower half of the routes left of center on the Glo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the Glory Hole as seen 4 minutes down the h...
Top of the Glory Hole as seen 4 minutes down the h...
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach to the Glory Hole, Land of the Lost
The approach to the Glory Hole, Land of the Lost

Comments on The Glory Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Evan Wisheropp
Jul 18, 2017
The Glory Hole is the most underrated crag in Humboldt for the 5.11 climber. The climbing is absolutely incredible; the rock is uniquely special, the holds are awesome, the walls are very 3D/featured, and the routes are just as long as anything on the Vision's Wall. The difference being that beta can sometimes be trickier to decipher sometimes, which I think is great. Sometimes routes will feel a grade easier after you figure out the wacky sequences.

A note on the approach, if you find the trail, it should be no longer than 4 minutes from the car to the top of the crag. If you've hiked longer, you're lost. From the upper parking lot, look for a trail heading northeast from the final turn in the road (40' before where you parked). 150' down the trail, the trail forks. The obvious right turn takes you to the lower crags (Three Amigos, Tropics, etc). Go straight even though the trail is hard to see here. 50' later, a solid trail re-appears and switchbacks straight down the hill. Hike left or right around to the base of the crag.

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