All Locations > New Hampshire > Lakes Region > New Durham Area… > Longstack Preci… > 2. Indigenous Wall

The Gloaming

Name: The Gloaming
Rating: 1.7

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13

Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	An Aztec Nightmare T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Begginer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Comfortably Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Earth and Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Gloaming, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Hanta Yo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Islands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lost Heroes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Man Eater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Midnight Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Midnight Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Onslaught T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Orthanc T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pirates of Longstack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Raven Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rawhide T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Relic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sacred Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spirit Guide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Still Gettin' Booty T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Stroke, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Strychnine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Suicide Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Sweat Lodge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tardis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Terror Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thunder Island T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
	Toltec Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Velvet Underground T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wayback Machine, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Loran Smith, Jim Dickson, and Joshua Corbett. November 23, 2012. (P2 Smith & Dickson 11-14-12)
Page Views:	1,170 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Edge on Nov 15, 2012
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

P1. Climb the low angle, blunt arête to a ledge 25' up with two small oak trees. Follow the face behind the left oak past horizontals to a bulge with a fixed pin just over the lip. Clip the pin, then move right and up (5.5), or left and up a short flake over the lip (variation, 5.8). Belay directly above on a sloping ledge at a cluster of small maple trees.

P2. Climb straight up a low angle slab to the crux overlap and bulge, staying 10' left of the obvious flake system on "Relic" and 20' right of the shallow arching corner of "The Wayback Machine." Place pro at the lip of the overlap, then mantle over it and move up the steep slab (5.7+, crux) to horizontals and easier climbing. Continue straight up and slightly left on short, discontinuous diagonal finger cracks to finish below a large overhanging boulder at the top of the cliff. Move right to belay at the tree atop "Relic."

A fun, optional 5.7 finish moves up the 15' tall wide-hands crack that splits the boulder above the belay tree.

Location

Starts behind an oak tree growing next to the cliff just right of the wide crack start of "The Wayback Machine." Begin by climbing a low angle, blunt arête up to a ledge with two oak trees.
From the top of the cliff, either walk off left or rap with a 60m rope from the fixed anchors atop Relic.