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Wayback Machine, The T 

The Gloaming 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Loran Smith, Jim Dickson, and Joshua Corbett. November 23, 2012. (P2 Smith & Dickson 11-14-12)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: EDGE on Nov 15, 2012

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A closer shot

Description 

P1. Climb the low angle, blunt arête to a ledge 25' up with two small oak trees. Follow the face behind the left oak past horizontals to a bulge with a fixed pin just over the lip. Clip the pin, then move right and up (5.5), or left and up a short flake over the lip (variation, 5.8). Belay directly above on a sloping ledge at a cluster of small maple trees.

P2. Climb straight up a low angle slab to the crux overlap and bulge, staying 10' left of the obvious flake system on "Relic" and 20' right of the shallow arching corner of "The Wayback Machine." Place pro at the lip of the overlap, then mantle over it and move up the steep slab (5.7+, crux) to horizontals and easier climbing. Continue straight up and slightly left on short, discontinuous diagonal finger cracks to finish below a large overhanging boulder at the top of the cliff. Move right to belay at the tree atop "Relic."

A fun, optional 5.7 finish moves up the 15' tall wide-hands crack that splits the boulder above the belay tree.

Location 

Starts behind an oak tree growing next to the cliff just right of the wide crack start of "The Wayback Machine." Begin by climbing a low angle, blunt arête up to a ledge with two oak trees.
From the top of the cliff, either walk off left or rap with a 60m rope from the fixed anchors atop Relic.

Protection 

Small-mid sized stoppers, cams from 3/8" to 2", fixed pin.


Photos of The Gloaming Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim throught the forest
Jim throught the forest
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam on the Gloaming
Sam on the Gloaming
Rock Climbing Photo: Jimbo cleaning on lead
Jimbo cleaning on lead

Comments on The Gloaming Add Comment
Show which comments
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Nov 15, 2012

Cleaned on the lead during the FA, this route has some interesting moves and would benefit from a top-down wire brushing session. The horizontal cracks above the crux were packed with moss and dirt which necessitated some inventive protection, garnering the PG rating. Cleaning the crack out properly may yield solid cam placements that were not possible during the FA.
By jimmi jazz
From: Denver co
Nov 16, 2012

Nice job. That just might be the last route to be done.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Nov 16, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The elder is the true honey badger....he dosen`t give a shit
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 17, 2012

At least they are refering to you EDGE and not me !
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

He might be the oldest of the chinos but he still can crank
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Nov 23, 2012

Now thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed, with an enjoyable starting pitch that makes the entire line independent for the height of the cliff. The second pitch has great gear, though a bit strenuous to place in spots, and the short diagonal finger cracks are great fun.

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