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The Isle of Man
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Celtic Pride S 
Glashtyn, The S 
Mann's Arete S 

The Glashtyn 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alex McIntyre, August 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning Shade
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Aug 26, 2013

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Description 

The Glashtyn climbs the middle-left of the downhill face of the pinnacle. Starting up the clean face, interesting movement on unique holds (including a natural 4 finger pocket and a thumb wrap crimp) leads to the break with a sloping crimp rail. Pull through the next section (formerly the crux) and stay left of the bolt line for continuous, fun movement on pinches and gastons to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Mann's Arete.

The panel after the break was the crux, involving a hard stand up into a 2 finger half-pad sidepull/undecling knob, a big reach to a blade crimp, and a long deadpoint to a slopey jug. Unfortunately, despite 6 or 7 toprope burns determining where the line goes, I apparently missed a crimp in this section, reducing a very hard and unique sequence into a boring 5.10 haul (and dropping the grade from 12+ to 12a, so I'm told). Regardless, it is still the best line on the Isle of Man to date.

Location 

Middle of the downhill side of the Isle of Man.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Stick clip recommended, as there are some committing moves getting to the first bolt and the landing isn't great.


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