The Girl Next Door
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This recent route is another good alternative if you find the Beckey Route to be overcrowded. Three pitches feature some fun moves on good rock, and some easy moves on bad rock.
P1: Climb the low-angle face of the rock rib to a good stance below the next steeper pitch.
P2: Climb a steepening finger crack up and righward until it peters out and you can locate some footholds out left. Make a committing, balancy move that direction to reach another crack system. Climb up to an extremely sandy ledge featuring the Kitty Litter Pillar, pass gingerly by and up easy terrain to the tree that marks the top of the second pitch of the Beckey Route.
P3: Head across low-angle slabs to the steeper crack system on the left. Climb up this to the top of the arete and rejoin the Beckey Route.
A couple hundred vertical feet below the top of the Liberty Bell-Concord notch, there is a side gully on climber's left that leads to a large cave. Walk partway up this gully until you can move right onto a treed ledge to start the route.
Single rack to 3" with a couple extra in the fingers sizes.
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A reasonable alternative to the Beckey Route with a few additional loose and sandy parts. I found it to be a good option for someone looking to lead their first "5.9" climb (most of it is easier). The crux on P2 protects well.