The Girdle Traverse of Eagle Crag HVS 5b
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A fine expedition girdling the crag right to left taking in some fine exposed pitches.Start as for Postern Groove. P1)Climb the grove on its left side to a spike belay. (P1 of Postern Groove) 50'5.7.P2)Move left onto the lower ledge and traverse left across the arete and steep open groove.Continue left stepping a steep open corner,( On an earlier attempt with Bill Aughton Ross in a sudden thunder storm took an 80' fall from this point when a pro piton he tried to use to swing back acrooss the groove pulled,he ended up almost at the very start of the first pitch.)Continue towards a small tree in a groove above on the left. Climb the groove to belay below the crack of Post Mortem.75'.5.9. P3)Delicate moves lead left from the ledge for about 20'to a good ledge. Continue left to belay above some large blocks at the top of pitch one of Green Wall.50'.5.8.P4)Move left up to a ledge.(P2 of Green Wall)26'P5)A very steep traverse left is made on good holds to a small cave.High holds and a mantelshelf lead to a good ledge on the left.Belay below the top pitch of The Verdict.60'5.8+. P6)Traverse left to a steep rib and descend to belay below the large chimney of P5 of The Great Stair. 40'5.8. P7).Traverse left and slightly downwards past the steep ramp-like groove on the top pitch of The Squawk, until a short ascent leads to a grassy bower.60'5.8. P8)Make a few delicate moves up a wall and climb the crack to the summit.65' 5.8+.
Eagle Crag Borrowdale. See FRCC guide to Borrowdale.
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