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The Gimp 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Diab Rabie (1996)
Season: Summer afternoons, winter mornings
Page Views: 1,875
Submitted By: Edward Medina on Aug 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Red Wall The Gimp(5.10d) Crowders Mountain Stat...


6 bolts to a set of cold shuts. Crux is at the fourth bolt. Traverse left after the crux to a set of shuts. There is a third bolt for backing up the shuts.


Located at the far right end of the Red Wall. Shares a start with Tom-Tom Club. Rappell from shuts.


6 draws

Photos of The Gimp Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Wall  The Gimp (5.10d) sport  Crowders Mountai...
Red Wall The Gimp (5.10d) sport Crowders Mountai...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Wall  Johanna Nevins leads  The Gimp (5.10d)  ...
Red Wall Johanna Nevins leads The Gimp (5.10d) ...

Comments on The Gimp Add Comment
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By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 13, 2013

Really Fun route!! Little business here a little business there. Sustained climbing with excellent movements and holds. Climb up the arête and work your way left as you move higher. IF you are going to rap clean this route beware there is a pretty large swing required to get to the route from the anchor.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Apr 7, 2013

This route got a facelift. New hardware from the ASCA and rebolting by Tim Fisher.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Dec 7, 2013

Replaced bolts three and four with stainless steel glue-ins 12/7/2013.
By Phillip M.
From: Spartanburg/Rock Hill
Nov 14, 2015

Great Climb. If you stick clip the first bolt you have no worry of taking bad falls.
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Nov 23, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This line is a tight squeeze with Tom Tom Club but luckily we were there with R. Hutchins who helped us understand Diab's originally intended line -- after pulling the small roof above bolt #1, clip bolt #2 and briefly climb up to the arete at bolt #3. From bolt #3, you return to the face and away from the arete.

There is a distinct crux move above bolt #3 while moving to bolt #4. It's tempting to climb the arete from #3 to #4 because it just seems natural but that bypasses the initial (and toughest IMHO) crux.

The climbing from bolt #5 to the anchors involves a fair amount of suspect rock.

Food for Thought: I realize there is some new hardware on this climb and no one wants to create more holes but bolt #2 and #3 could really stand to be moved up. You cannot clip #2 from under the roof so you have to pull through completely which puts #2 at or below your waist at that very safe stance... why not move it up 2-3'? If you moved #2, #3 could move up as well which would better protect the crux move and keep you from decking on the roof feature in the event you blew the crux from #3 to #4.
Rock Climbing Photo: the Gimp - route beta
the Gimp - route beta
By Shadrock
From: Here and there.
Dec 21, 2015

I don't know if this changes anything, but I pulled off a decent sized (maybe equivalent to a couple laptops) flake exiting the crux after the 4th bolt. I didn't use it the first time I sent it so I have no idea what made think this was good beta (esp. considering the generally poor rock quality on the upper section of Crowders). Anyways, I don't know if it'll change the grade at all but I thought I should mention it.

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