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Long Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Approach, The T 
Are the Pies Fresh? S 
Autumn T 
B3 T 
Back Door to Paris S 
Big Country T 
Bloodline T 
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 
Cruise Control T 
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 
Fire and Finess S 
Game Boy S 
Gift, The S 
Gladuator S 
Hot September T 
Kazi and Mito S 
Long Wall Chimney T 
Mailbox T 
NEPA This T 
Next Day Air T 
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 
Perforator T 
Ralph & Bob's T 
Rock Caddie S 
Rock Wars T 
Sacred Geometry T 
Snatch, The S 
Souders Crack T 
Stand and Deliver S 
Suction Lipectomy T 
Trinket Man S 
Two Step T 
Vector Trouble T 
Whip It Out S 
Yuk T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Gift 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill McCullough, Tim Powers, 11/'90
Season: Faces S/SE
Page Views: 4,377
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Halloween 2016... getting weird

Description 

A great climb with a dual personality. I found the crux to be on the thin and insecure face climbing down low, but the steep rock on the second half still has a kick to it.

Location 

Not far to the right of the big Rockhouse of Autumn and Rock Wars, you will encounter a bolted thin face ascending up and right to a steep bulge. Climb this to a ledge with anchors.

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor these days. There were once only 6.


Photos of The Gift Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin tiptoeing up to the headwall
Kevin tiptoeing up to the headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: Dustin Clelen on lower slab section.  The slab cru...
BETA PHOTO: Dustin Clelen on lower slab section. The slab cru...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin crankin'
Kevin crankin'
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Bankoff makin' it happen!  This is easily the...
Mike Bankoff makin' it happen! This is easily the...

Comments on The Gift Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 17, 2010

Got too scared of the bolts... its in bad shape.
By Dustin Clelen
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2011

As of October, 2011, the bolts on this puppy are in fine shape. The first one is a drilled angle that's sticking out a good inch or so, but it's solid (similar to a lot of anchors in Zion, but with rock that's way more solid). I can't quite remember, but I think it may even be glued in place. The only slightly runout section is where the slab stops and the headwall starts. It's not bad though, deadpoints (for me) to progressively bigger jugs.

Bottom line: DO IT!
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 28, 2015

This thing has incredible climbing. (though height dependent) I'm 5'9" with a pretty neutral wingspan and everything felt just about right, but my partner who's a few inches shorter than me had a way harder time. Seems like the move at the 4th bolt can be (and is?) done a few different ways. Hand traversing right seemed easier than trying to go straight up.

The bolts definitely could use some attention. Right now they're all expansion bolts (excepting the drilled angle at the start. Why is that thing there?) and the majority of them are disturbingly corroded. (especially above the slab) Someone put an extra bolt inches away from the bolt above the roof which is nice because of all the rust, but leaving the original there is kind of a hack job. This route is incredible and deserves to be equipped with good hardware!
By Mike Mellenthin
From: Palo Alto
Mar 24, 2016

This route is all time!

If you clip the non-rusty bolt of the two that are side by side, make sure to face your gates to the right. I faced them left and the second bolt pushed the gate open when I climbed past. If only for this reason one of those should be pulled. But keep the drilled angle! Adds character.
By Big Ears
Apr 19, 2016

One of the most fun routes at any grade! I found the crux to be getting in a clipping stance for the last bolt. but after cleaning it on TR after a Send Train found some holds I missed the first go around. After all that I would agree the crux is the slabby face! A must do for anyone remotely near 5.12