Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Hall of Giants
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracken, The T 
Giant Peach 5.12+ or 5.10+ C1, The T 
Jack and the Beanstalk T 
Little John T 

The Giant Peach 5.12+ or 5.10+ C1 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Established by A. Miller, W. Canning, A. Jordan, open FFA!!
New Route: Yes
Season: colder is better
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Nov 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This beast of a crack-climb ascends great quality rock that slightly overhangs the whole way so that the topout clears 20 horizontal feet from the base of the second pitch. It starts by ascending 30 feet of really good 5.10 right facing corner to a large ledge system. From here, you will want to belay for the next 155' section.
3 distinct 5.12 cruxes await you, each of a unique character. The first two are encountered close to the ground and have a bolt to help catch repeated falls (if necessary) or to help you pull through.
The route continues through 100' of astounding 10+ climbing with sections of great pockets and features but close enough to crack to place gear. Then you hit the last 2 bolts at the final short crux when the pockets seem to run out. Set up for big throw to horn!!!

Location 

This is the far right route on the main part of the Hall of Giants wall, just right of Jack and the Beanstalk. Lower part is right facing and switches to left facing corner at midway. Upper anchors can be accessed by climbing JATB to anchors, then climb the remaining 15' of 5.9 squeeze chimney to ledge system. Look right for GP anchors.

Protection 

4 bolts (currently 1st bolt has no hanger but can aid past on tips to finger sized gear)
Bring 3 to 4 each of 0.2 to 0.5 camalots and set of nuts. Single cams from #0.75 to #4.
2-60 m ropes required to descend from bolted anchor at ledge.


Comments on The Giant Peach 5.12+ or 5.10+ C1 Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -