REI Community
Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Double Dragon (right side) 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave Direct, The T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Ghost 

WI6 M10 R

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 165', Grade III
Original: WI6 M10 R [details]
FA: Will Mayo and Ben Collett, 10/11/14
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/Winter
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: Will Mayo on Oct 27, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Ghost topo, fixed pins marked "P".


Belay on screws and a fixed angle piton on the ice ramp that skirts the Silhouette Buttress. Climb a short ice bulge, pass a fixed bong, move right into a corner below and overhang and a large, wedged block. Surmount the overhang and climb right out an arcing crack with pick torquing techniques past a fixed blade (upward driven), good medium-sized units can be placed here. Round the corner, stem to the icicle (if possible), and climb up into the right-facing corner past a fixed pecker, chimney-ing between the icicle and the rock. Good small units can be placed here. Round the icicle to the right where it pours out of the ceiling, and get into an off-finger crack with a fixed angle (there may be a second icicle coming out of the crack, burying the pin). Decent hooks in the tapers at the bottom of the crack lead to thin hooks on edges and tool-head torques to ascend the crack. It's burly and technical. Head up and slightly right on thin smears of ice and over ledges and quartz riddled horizontal cracks to the top.


Approach by either climbing the first pitch of Silhouette or descend in from the climber's left side of the wall if the lower smears are not in shape. If it's in shape, the ghostly icicle is hard to miss, left of Shooting Star.


Cams from #0 TCU through #2 Camalot (double or triple set of #0.5 and #0.75 Camalots), nuts, and a couple of screws for the belay.

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