REI Community
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bombay Sapphire T 
Brothers in Arms T 
Deadend Dihedral T 
Europa T 
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 
Freeway T 
Gauntlet, The T 
Men Holding Hands T 
Millenium Falcon T,S 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stone Free T 
Sunset Strip T 
Warriors of the Wasteland T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Gauntlet 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Colin Morehead
Page Views: 1,358
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Jun 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>


I haven't done it yet, only parts of it, but it is a new long route on the chief, a little scruffy in parts, but quality pitches to be had. See attached topo at


Left of Deadend Dihedral and right of Millenium Falcon. Walk off to the chief trail as per other routes in this area.


Double set of gear from purple tcu to hand size, with a #4 and 5 camalot. Bolted anchors

Comments on The Gauntlet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Ford
From: Seattle, Washington
Jul 5, 2016

Found this to be an excellent, if perhaps less-frequented, outing. We'd some minor route-finding confusion working from (2012) Squamish Select, as both the photo-topo in that book and the attached topo on this page are out of date.

P1-3: These would make an excellent outing on their own, and could be rapped on a single 60M via the Sunset Strip rap line. P3 (the fantastic .11a corner) has a bolted anchor about halfway up the pitch that can be easily used to cut down the burl factor. Off this intermediate belay there was a short OW feature that protects very well with a #5 C4, but could be liebacked without too much trouble.

P4: This is described as a "hard step right from the belay". We instead continued up the box corner, shared with Sunset Strip, from the belay and exited right via a short overhanging hand crack. An exit left here would keep you on Sunset Strip, bypassing the .11c P5.

P5: Wow. Such fun, much hard. Expect thin nuts and cerebral climbing after exiting the obvious corner above you.

P6: Very short. A near top-rope with a #5 C4, or a potentially slab-slapping fall without.

P7+: Step down & left to join the final 4 pitches shared with Sunset Strip. The finish of Gauntlet, as described in the topo, appeared quite dirty.

All in all, this was a great climb. Would definitely recommend the full climb, climbing P1-3 alone from the base, or using P1-3 as a variation to add a touch of .11a to Sunset Strip.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About