Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
One route right of Pretty Hate Machine. Long moves on crimps for the first two bolts, then a couple of pocket moves to get to the 3rd. A neat sequence brings you up to the fourth bolt, using a series of right hand side pulls. Pause on a pocket past the 4th, then a small crimp and a right hand mono get you to the fifth. A long draw helps on this bolt. One more hardish sequence to the 6th bolt on a sloping rail with the right and a friable left hand side pull. The finish is not hard, but the holds are difficult to find as this one doesn't get too much traffic.
There are some pretty sharp holds on this route, and a few things that look like they may break off if yarded on too hard. However, the movement is good and it's a fun sprint. Good trainer for power/endurance on gently overhanging rock. Not as good as PHM and a little bit harder, but definitely as good as Dogs.
next route right of Pretty Hate Machine
By Vance White
Nov 17, 2009
another f.a. by Frank Dusl back in the day.