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The Maze (aka Amaze-ing)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Befuddled T 
Christie's Ultimatum  T 
Conjugal Visit T 
Convict, The S 
Cosmic Quarantine S 
Flake Toprope TR 
Gates of Lodore, The T 
Malicious T 
Mirror Images (aka Tuber's Birth Canal) T 
Mr. Pickles Learns to Swim T 
Not Long Enough T 
Pandora's Box has Cracked T 
Shocker, The T 
Short Stuff T 
Stepford Wives T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Turd Launcher T 
Twisted T 
Unpredictable T 
Vigilante Justice T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Gates of Lodore 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Luebben and Harper, '98
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: Skip Harper on Oct 14, 2014

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The upper section of Gates of Ladore.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is the big crack splitting the east face (#1 on FIGURES 1 & 2), going from a body squeezing start to offwidth to hands. It's smooth 'in there' at the start, so either wear a non-skid rubber suit or be ready to exert extra pressure against the opposing faces. Higher up, one must transition out of the fat crack and into a great hand crack. Belay and descend (about 60 feet) from two ring anchors at the top.


It is the East Face of the formation. See the Figs. 1 and 2 for the location of route #1, the climb, and top anchors.


Take a half rack, doubles in the medium range, and at least 2 #5 Big Bros or equivalent large cams (cams probably preferable , we also used the two largest 'Big Dudes' at the time - it flares!) for the beginning (negotiating this area might be the crux, or maybe higher up where the crack spits you out). (There are anchors at the top).

Photos of The Gates of Lodore Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: See if you can solve the 'Gates of Lodore' (number...
BETA PHOTO: See if you can solve the 'Gates of Lodore' (number...

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By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 3, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

24' up you can get a good #4 Big Bro, followed by a #6, #5, then smaller stuff in the more mild portion of the climb. Good climb, but like much of the routes at the Maze, it is a whole number grade soft compared to other Vedauwoo routes.

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