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The Gates of Lodore
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 16
votes
Routes in The Maze (aka Amaze-ing)
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Befuddled T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Christie's Ultimatum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Conjugal Visit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Convict, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cosmic Quarantine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Reflection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flake Toprope TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gates of Lodore, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goin’ Topside T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Malicious T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mirror Images (aka Tuber's Birth Canal) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mr. Pickles Learns to Swim T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nancy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Not Long Enough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pandora's Box has Cracked T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Panguso Returns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shocker, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Short Stuff T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stepford Wives T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turd Launcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Twisted T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unpredictable T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vigilante Justice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Luebben and Harper, '98 |
| Page Views: | 4,045 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Skip Harper on Oct 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road 700B is closed to vehicular traffic
Details
It appears the USFS has 'semi-permanently' closed off Road 700b to vehicular traffic as of early 2014. That doesn't mean you can't hike the existing road(s) into the formation.
Description
This is the big crack splitting the east face (#1 on FIGURES 1 & 2), going from a body squeezing start to offwidth to hands. It's smooth 'in there' at the start, so either wear a non-skid rubber suit or be ready to exert extra pressure against the opposing faces. Higher up, one must transition out of the fat crack and into a great hand crack. Belay and descend (about 60 feet) from two ring anchors at the top.
Location
It is the East Face of the formation. See the Figs. 1 and 2 for the location of route #1, the climb, and top anchors.
Protection
Take a half rack, doubles in the medium range, and at least 2 #5 Big Bros or equivalent large cams (cams probably preferable , we also used the two largest 'Big Dudes' at the time - it flares!) for the beginning (negotiating this area might be the crux, or maybe higher up where the crack spits you out). (There are anchors at the top).
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