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Big Bang S 
Bloodshot T 
Color Me Gone S 
Deadman's Rappel S 
Edge of Doom S 
End of Time T 
Evolution of Man S 
Gash, The T 
Green Hell S 
Left Seam, The S 
PA Corner T 
Sauron's Nest T,S 

The Gash 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ron Anderson and Greg Bergen (1976)
Page Views: 2,024
Submitted By: Rick D on Dec 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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"A dirty slot leads up to a rock filled ledge on the inside of an awkward chimney which is followed to fourth class ledges at the top."


When you first cross the creek, take a right. This is the big dihedral. Climb the chimney! (updated based on Ron's feedback, to distinguish from the mix up in Mike's Falcon guide. - ed.)


"Pro to 3 inches."

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By Ron Anderson
Aug 3, 2009

8 bollts in the gash???? uhhh this was done in 76 with no bolts gonna have to shoot up there and take a looksie..LOL...
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Aug 6, 2009

I probably have my routes mixed up... If that's the case, just let me know and I'll fix it.
By Ron Anderson
Aug 7, 2009

ahhh could be the gash is the gully climb between deadmans and the end dihederal on the right side of the face kinda dirty but with an interesting exit out the chimney at the top....5.7 ish That rock hadnt really been touched till 74 you wouldnt believe the amount of cleaning we did on that! A bunch of us worked at a local alpine store i Carson called Bobs Alpine and it was a handy play ground back then ........
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 18, 2011

This is the route the guidebook calls The Gash, so if someone is wrong, I guess it is the guidebook author.

Even though it is 'only' 5.7, this is one of the best routes at Dinosaur. Long and full of fun moves, the last third has a great alpine feel to it as well!
By Ron Anderson
Jun 7, 2011

hhmmm, Airelli, as You know, i wrote the guide for Dino. The GASH IS the trough and chimney to the RIGHT of the bolted face, which IS "deadmans Rappel". But then again, ive only been climbing there since 1974.;-)
By Ron Anderson
Jun 7, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: route descrips from guide
route descrips from guide
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 7, 2011

I was referring to the Carville guide, and I assumed Mike Carville wrote those descriptions/topos. Something must be amiss in that book because it certainly seemed to indicate to my partner and I that The Gash was the climb described here and that Deadman's Rappel was a different route (which we did not climb that day)... Also I just looked over the description for D.R. on here and the various and sundry beta pics for the whole crag, and it all seems to be conflicting information from different people at every turn on which line is what.

The name 'The Gash' does seem more appropriate for the dirty 5th class gully to the left of the face climb! I will retract my stars for this route and assign them elsewhere per your correction, Ron.
By Ron Anderson
Jun 8, 2011

DOnt know how that has been confused really. It wasnt in the yellow Carville guide. But at any rate, the nice fun 5.7 bolted face be deadmans rappel, with "the gash" next door to the right. actually the gash is fun also-has an interesting exit out the top of the chimney.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 15, 2011

The Carville guide (not old yellow but the current Falcon) shows The Gash as being a bolted face directly left of Deadman's Rappel. It illustrates them as having independent bolt lines for about 3-4 bolts and then converging to finish. It seems to illustrate the long deep gully to the left of these two face routes as being a different route called Quadzilla, 5.4.

But as we know, that Falcon guide has a lot of problems mislabeling routes in multiple areas. It is too bad.
By Ron Anderson
Jun 16, 2011

ahhh yeah,, the FALCON guide LOL!!! That explains everything....The best thing to do with that guide is to use it to line the bird cage with!! There is no route there called "quadzilla"...I would have thought he could have gotten that the area right since he was using my info in the first place...sheeesh.;-) ill post up the top for ya here, as to eliviate da confusion!
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