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The Garston Trout 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 270', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1+ [details]
FA: Steve Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, Chip Wilson, Mark Patterson, May 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,512
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 27, 2007

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Cap'n Strappo enjoying an after-climb beverage


Start on the east side, under the obvious crack.
1. Climb awkwardly into the crack, follow it to a small ledge (A1+, 100').
2. Continue to a small ledge, (A1, 100')
3. Continue up softer rock to the notch and a two-bolt anchor (5.7, A1, 50').
4. Climb loose rock to the summit (5.6, 25').
Descent: downclimb 25' to the notch, rap 200' into the west gully, hike to base.


The Garston Trout is the largest of the towers across the canyon from Arch Tower. These are about two miles from the river.

We were intending to climb Arch Tower, but standing underneath the tower, we spotted the tell-tale slingage…. So we looked for a line on the group of towers across the canyon. We picked a nice line on the tallest of the these towers.

Pretty hot in May, but there was water in a few potholes not too far away. We were serenaded by loud frogs at night. The river was really high and fast. Strappo and Mark rafted in from Westwater with the gear, and I hiked a few miles from the overlook at the top of the canyon to join them. It's a fantastic hike down the canyon, with great scenery, and few traces of the supposed trail, or any sign of any humans. Chip Wilson hiked in a day later to join us. To leave, we (plus Mark Patterson), all sat on top of our gear in the tiny raft, and slid downstream very fast.


Gear: Six knifeblades/Toucans, Tie-offs. Wires, inc. RPs. At least 3 each cam up to #5 Camalot. Pitch 1 would be much easier with at least two #5 Camalots.

Photos of The Garston Trout Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Trout is the tallest tower on the right
The Trout is the tallest tower on the right
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip Wilson, on the summit
Chip Wilson, on the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: The Garston Trout.  Strappo is leading pitch 2, be...
The Garston Trout. Strappo is leading pitch 2, be...

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