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The Gargoyle

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The Gargoyle Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 5,000'
Page Views: 1,814
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Dec 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The toe of the most north/western shoulder on the ...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


Directly opposite from Mt. Barille, The Gargoyle guards the the entrance to the Ruth Gorge from the north(Don Sheldon Amphitheater) on it's eastern flanks. Realistically, it is the toe of the most north/western shoulder on the Moose's Tooth Massif. The Gargoyle stands on it's own as a 1800' granite wall capped by a snowfield. It's western exposure allows for the wall to be bathed in the sun until dropping down behind Mt. Dickey. There are many crack lines on this buttress, but many wide, wet and loose sections don't encourage a plethora of classics. The only complete route I've seen recorded is a line Dave Medara and I established in July 1997. "New Mother Nature".....

Getting There 

Depending where you land on the Ruth Glacier, The Gargoyle is best approached on skies.The condition of the glacier will determine the difficulty or the ease of gaining the base of the wall. Just a stone's throw directly across the gorge from Mt Barille...

Climbing Season

Weather station 38.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Gargoyle
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Gargoyle from the north... New Mother ...

New Mother Nature 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1  Alaska : Denali National Park : ... : The Gargoyle
An incredible line as a whole, but some sections of wet and loose rock to add to the excitement... Eyeing up what we thought was the best line, we noticed rappel slings up to about the 400' mark. It was obvious the first 4 incredible pitches were done by a previous party...(?) At that point, we tried to climb left, then tried to climb right only to turn back as other parties had. Dave Medara took the rack and tackled the ominous offwidth crack straight up. About 30' up with our only #4 Cam...[more]   Browse More Classics in Alaska

Photos of The Gargoyle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A fly-by shot or from Mt. Dickey?
A fly-by shot or from Mt. Dickey?
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gargoyle
BETA PHOTO: The Gargoyle

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By Harry Marinakis
Aug 24, 2014
My friend and I attempted a big wall on the Gargoyle back in 1983 (same line as Electric View, FA 2004).

Some words of warning: see those big black streaks on the wall? Those are avalanche paths.

Routes like the Beauty and the Beast and New Mother Nature (EEEK!) lay in avalanche paths. My partner and I saw numerous HUGE avalanches roll down those black streaks, especially New Mother Nature. Be smart, be careful!

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