The Garden is in the center of the north face, in a secluded spot hidden from the road by large pine trees. There is only one sport route here (Before The Deluge); all the other routes are mixed, and require gear in addition to the bolts. Routes here range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.11+, with most in the 5.8 to 5.9 range.
Outstanding routes include Before The Deluge
, and The B Boys
The leftmost route (Just Do It) has its own anchor. The remaining routes (Fine Fir, Storm Warning, Before The Deluge, and Crackdown) share a 2-bolt anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.
This common anchor is the starting point for four more routes: Showtime, Dutch Treat, Border Crossing, and The B Boys. All of these routes are mixed, and scale a beautiful, exposed pinnacle with great position. The hardest line in this area is Smooth Operator, 5.11+, which takes off after the first pitch of The B Boys.
From the start of Crackdown, a steep dirt path heads down and right to the Creekside area and Local Hero. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Routes from left to right:
19. Just Do It
, 9, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Face and cracks on the left side of the wall. Lowering anchor with hooks.
20. Fine Fir
, 7, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Climbs past a pine tree 15' up the wall.
21. Storm Warning
, 10a, 1p, toprope. Face just right of Fine Fir.
22. Before The Deluge
, 10a, 1p, 5 bolts. Bolted face in center of wall.
, 9, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Finger crack on right side of wall.
Routes starting from the common anchor atop routes 20-23:
, 8+, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Arete on left side of pinnacle.
25. Dutch Treat
, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to cracks in center of pinnacle.
26. Border Crossing
, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to left-facing corner right of Dutch Treat.
27. The B Boys
, 11, 2p, 4 bolts and gear. Steep face, then technical stemming corner and roofs, merging with Border Crossing.
28. Smooth Operator
, 11+, 1p, 8 bolts and gear. Starts after p1 of The B Boys and merges with Local Hero.
Cross the creek via the tyrolean, or wade or hop rocks if the water level is low enough.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods.
Take a sharp right just before the talus field on a level path heading upstream. Walk past several pine trees to a secluded clearing after 50'.
This approach takes about 5 minutes.
Weather station 4.8 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Garden
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Garden
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Garden:
Dutch Treat 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Showtime 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
The B Boys 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For The Garden
Before The Deluge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Colorado
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : The Garden
Before The Deluge is the only sport route in The Garden. It starts near the right-center of the wall, by a bolt about 10' up.Climb past the first bolt to a stance (crux). This move can be done several different ways; climbing up the crack on the right and stepping left is easier (9); going straight up past the bolt is harder (10a). Angle left up a ramp past two more bolts to a ledge. Climb the slab above past two more bolts. Climbing straight up past the last bolt is hard...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado