REI Community
The Garden Boulders

Select Route:
All Bernd Down 
All Bernd Up 
Bitchslap 
Brewmaster 
Ear, The 
Garden Groove T,S 
Garden Variety 
Gumby Slab 
Heisenberg 
Into The Light 
into the light assis 
Leary's Lunge 
Leave it to Jesus 
Locksmith, The 
Mole 
Octernal 
Octernal (Direct Variation) 
Philanthropy 
Showboat 
Siren (High Variation), The 
Siren, The 
Slabarific 
Swollen Member 
Teen Spirit 
Trust 
Unknown (entrance boulder) 
White Fang 

The Garden Boulders Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.44069, -122.57549 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,401
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 23, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
New route in the Garden. Maybe V3/4.

Description 

The main bouldering area. Comprised of a handful of massive boulders and many smaller ones, this contains most of the developed problems at the Garden.

The story is that the boulders prevented access to the trees here so the logging company didn't clear it out. Luckily for climbers the old trees provide plenty of shade and a great atmosphere. There is one main trail that leads down from the parking area and past the top two boulders before plunging downhill to the rest. Parts of the forest are still very overgrown and there is a thick layer of moss over everything that hasn't been climbed recently.

Getting There 

Park on the second gravel road (as described in the main directions). Walk East on the trail downhill to the boulders.

Climbing Season

For the The Garden area.

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Garden Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Garden Boulders:
Mole   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 10'   
Showboat   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   
Bitchslap   V2 5+     Boulder, 8'   
Trust   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 12'   
Swollen Member   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 5'   
The Ear   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   
The Locksmith   V4 6B     Boulder, 35'   
The Siren   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   
Leave it to Jesus   V5 6C PG13     Boulder   
Octernal   V8 7B     Boulder, 25'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Garden Boulders

Featured Route For The Garden Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up to the inverted V pinch on The Siren.

The Siren V5 6C  Oregon : Willamette Valley : ... : The Garden Boulders
An excellent problem with a lot of movement. Works up the stand alone prow near Garden Variety. Start low and heal out right on a good ledge. From there work up to the inverted V pinch and left to the arete. From there it is a long committing move to the slopers on the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of The Garden Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse on Octernal
The traverse on Octernal
Rock Climbing Photo: The Good V3 - go Nomi!
The Good V3 - go Nomi!
Rock Climbing Photo: The Good V3, start
The Good V3, start
Rock Climbing Photo: Same problem as the "featured picture" -...
BETA PHOTO: Same problem as the "featured picture" -...
Rock Climbing Photo: whorf boulder, clearcut area  visible on google ea...
whorf boulder, clearcut area visible on google ea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel cranking a typical Garden problem.
Daniel cranking a typical Garden problem.

Comments on The Garden Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Childers
Jun 25, 2009
Dude Wiley,
You have just added six new classic problems to "The Garden" in a matter of weeks.. not to mention your future plans. You sir are a visionary and a pioneer. I am proud to have climbed with you and can't wait to do so again. Those at the Garden thank you. Keep them comming man!!

Luke Childers
By Andrew Child
From: Santa Clara
Sep 7, 2016
Topo Hawk has a fairly comprehensive guide to the bouldering in the area. In general there are a lot of discrepancies over the names and grades of routes in the area and no complete guide exists.
By Micah Elconin
Jun 3, 2017
The topohawk guide is pretty helpful for finding stuff, but yeah, I'm VERY confused about the grades it lists. Either I'm super lost or there are like V9s being listed as V4s etc?
By Chris Kisio
From: Beaverton
Jun 25, 2017
OK. So as of June 23 2017, You are NOT allowed to park on the second dirt road closest to the boulder field. It is private property and owned by a logging company that will call the sheriff and have you ticketed for trespassing, as I got one issued. The sheriff came down to the boulders and walked us out to our car and ticketed us. He also made me take the guide book that was left at the V8 problem. I asked to leave it for future climbers, but he said he would ticket me for littering. So I have the guide book, and will return it on my next visit. Sorry Luke Childers...

Immediately after the second dirt road on the right hand side is a small pullout. Park there and walk up the road about 20 yards and the trail is on opposite side of road. Best place to park and not get a trespassing ticket.

Also FYI ; There is no primitive camping along Quartville Rd. For traveling climbers, that info is false that someone wrote about on the cliffs description page. Closest campground is $22 a night. Unless you have two cars, then its $29!! Camp Host is a douche bag also. And campground is packed all the time!! Good luck
By Andrew Child
From: Santa Clara
Sep 5, 2017
Chris. Sucks to hear that you had such a bad experience. Did the sheriff say anything about access to the climbing or was he just concerned about where you parked?

Also I was probably the person who commented about primitive camping. If you go about 20 miles further up the road there are a bunch spots where people camp basically in pullouts on the side of the road. I have never camped there, but I assume that it is free and allowed (or at least tolerated) given there are no signs that indicate otherwise and I see people camping there every time I drive through the area. There are also a bunch of cool boulders up there that are worth checking out, I added them to a separate page on this site.
By Chris Kisio
From: Beaverton
Sep 7, 2017
Andrew, Yeah he was just worried about where we parked. The boulders are still open to the public, just have to park across the street in the dirt pull out down from the trail.

I guess I should have driven farther. Thanks for the info.
I will return the topo when I can get a chance. Peace

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About