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Far Side 
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The Gallery Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,600'
Location: 38.6192, -105.2367 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jan 1, 2001

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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Visible to the west of the Sand Gulch Campground is the Gallery consisting of three walls:

1) The Far Side is the southern (left) side of the canyon facing NE
2) The Menses Prow is the central south facing buttress, and
3) The Mural Wall on the right side facing west, and the Fish Wall at its left end.

The Menses Prow includes the prow proper as well as the Bulge Wall around the corner. Both this area and the Mural Wall have high concentrations of quality routes on good rock. Ratings run from 5.7 to 5.13, most routes in the 10-12 range. There are scattered routes on the Far Side including sections further to the North called the Pitts and the Dungeon. Just downhill from here are a couple of short steep routes on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. You can find morning shade on Mural Wall and Bulge Wall and afternoon shade at the Far Side.

Getting There 

There are two options. The first and best option is to park at the Sand Gulch campground, and follow an excellent trail that begins between campsites #9 and #10. Follow this trail for 2 minutes downhill to a wash, cross the wash and arrive at the old Gallery parking area. The other alternative is to drive to this parking area. From Shelf Road, turn left on the road to the Sand Gulch campground. After 30 yds the road makes a sharp bend right, and a less-defined dirt road heads off straight/left. Follow this 4WD road for several hundred yards to the unmarked P-Lot. Super not recommended.

From the Parking Lot, a well-maintained trail heads NW toward the cliffs. The Trail parallels a barbed-wire fence for the first bit. Well-signed trails diverge towards the Far Side, Mural Wall, and finally the Menses Prow. A left at the first fork leads to the Far Side. Staying right will lead to another fork, where a right turn leads to the Mural Wall/Fish Wall and the left fork heads to the Menses Prow. 20-30 Minute Approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

168 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',57],['2 Stars',87],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Gallery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Gallery:
Period Piece   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
Prima Nocta    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Menses Prow
Lamont's Period    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Menses Prow
First Blood   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Menses Prow
Smart Server   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Menses Prow
Anguish and Fear   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Mural Wall
Block Party   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Mural Wall
Los Pepes   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Mural Wall
Pueblo Gringos   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Menses Prow
John Cruiser Meloncrimp   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Mural Wall
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
The Big Chill   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
Mother of Invention   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mural Wall
Flashback To Acid Beach   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
Menses   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
Morpheus   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Mural Wall
Slender Fungus   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   Menses Prow
Ludlow's Massacre   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 68'   Mural Wall
No Passion for Fashion   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
Thirteen Engines   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Menses Prow
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Gallery

Featured Route For The Gallery
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.

Lizard With a View 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Colorado : Shelf Road : ... : Far Side
Black is beautiful. Climb the dark, vertical to overhanging wall past 10 or so clips. The difficulties come quickly (at the 2nd bolt), but the pitch is engaging all the way to the anchors. Note: you can cheat the crux on the right with some offwidth debauchery... drops the grade to .10d or so. Still a stellar line....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of The Gallery Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Menses Prow and California Ethics Pinnacle.
Menses Prow and California Ethics Pinnacle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pink light.
Pink light.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Far Side from Menses Prow.
The Far Side from Menses Prow.

Comments on The Gallery Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 8, 2002
Mense's Prow/Bluge wall has what is probably the highest concentration of moderate routes in Shelf Road. Where as the other walls in the area might have one or 2 routes under 5.10, this wall has at least half a dozen. Probably the best bet for intermediate leaders in the area.
Dec 30, 2002
In 1995, I soloed up the west side of the South East Arete, of the California Pinnacle (it was just like soloing the last pitch of The Flame).... When I got the the top, I wrapped a rope -10 ft. down and drilled two climbs: *The one on the East side (of the South East Arete) is called Red Dog *The one one the North West side of the California Pinnacle is called Tucker's Faith. Then I hiked to the top of Bat Crack and tryed to clean it, but there were too many bats and the sun was going down. So I lowered the anchors, left the Bosch, and returned the next day to finish it with Jason. This was two weeks before I fell off - above skyline - of DoRDi, and stopped that dirty shi....
By Legs Magillicutty
From: Durango
Jan 27, 2003
What is the name of the route on the California Pinnacle facing the trail? I don't see it listed here or in any of the guide books. It's a bolted line, approx 75-80', felt like it was about 10a ish, give or take.
By Sean O'Dell
Jun 3, 2003
Tracy - I've never heard a name for it. I think Knapp's book lists it as "Unknown - 5.9+" but I'm not sure. For lack of a better name, my parties have always referred to it as "Plumber's Crack." Who knows, maybe we should post it that way and then it'll stick...
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 21, 2004
Anyone know the name of the route two lines to the right of B.O.S.S. Method? I believe that Dumb Waiter ascends the inside arete (dark, with a bulge near the top riddled with four-finger pockets) just right and across the chimney from Method. The one I'm asking about is the outside, blunt arete a yard or so right of this, where the trail bends at a gnarled tree. About six bolts, a brief, thin crack half way up, small black roof just before the anchors...
By Nate Oakes
May 14, 2007
A reminder to watch for loose rock, even with as much traffic as this area gets. This weekend on Menses Prow, a loose block was pulled off and broke a belayer's leg, requiring a stretcher and helicopter flight out of the canyon. Be careful!
By Jason Parks
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 4, 2013
28 Sept 2013: May have dropped my wedding ring (white gold with 5 sapphires) and another ring (titanium with silver inlay) out the Trail to Menses Prow. Any booty finders, please contact me so I can get out of the doghouse.

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