Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Future of Fixed Anchors II
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Administrator
Mar 20, 2016
Who's all going? So far 26 signed up on FB. Anyone from the forums going? 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Mar 21, 2016
Yup! I will be there as a panelist concentrating mostly on hand drilling and how to remove unusual bolts. Check out this rebolting project at:

climbing.com/news/rebolting-re...
Bruce Hildenbrand
Joined Apr 18, 2003
1,166 points
Mar 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of the bottle
Hi, I don't do FB so I don't know whats up, but I would like to make a suggestion to all folks do do the good work of fixing old climbs.

Please leave a few of the historical relics in place for people to look at. Some of those old pieces have a story to tell and it would be best to leave some in place.
For example... In Bruce's work at the Pinnacles wouldn't it be nice to sit at a hanging stance, on new modern stuff, and hang your boots on one of those bolts with the "RK" stamped on it?
On Castle Rock Spire there is a bolt that Ax Nelson placed with his own hands with a home made hanger that he made... Marked "AN" .... you don't need it today because we have 3" pieces and I made the anchor with gear, his bolt, placed over 60 years ago, it is a thing of beauty and has been sitting there forever.
That bolt deserves some respect and getting chopped out and maybe hauled off to a climbing museum would be a shame.

Just my .02

Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
363 points
Mar 21, 2016
Work/Volunteering with the trail guides at the rendezvous has it shaping up for me to only get to see about 2/3rds of the Saturday demo portion but hopefully I can get off for the friday discussion part aswell. Nicholas Gillman
From Las Vegas
Joined Jan 27, 2015
365 points
Mar 21, 2016
20 kN wrote:
Who's all going? So far 26 signed up on FB. Anyone from the forums going?

What are you talking about?
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Mar 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Next steps...
^ yeah, is there a link to this event? Sounds interesting... Jonathan Cunha
From Bolinas, CA
Joined May 25, 2014
70 points
Mar 21, 2016
Guy,

we have been doing that were it was appropriate and safe to do so. When we were rebolting on the South Yak, we left Dave Hammack's original 1951 anchor bolt and also the lone bolt they placed to do the Tyrolean over to North Yak. We did, however, replace the protection bolt Hammack placed with new SS hardware.
Bruce Hildenbrand
Joined Apr 18, 2003
1,166 points
Mar 22, 2016
Future of Fixed Anchors Facebook Event


Here's the link to the event.

They're hooking up with the Rendezvous this time around in Red Rock, so they're running concurrently.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Mar 22, 2016
If the community is going to have a conference about fixed anchors, there should also be time devoted to the negative impacts - to both climbers (esp climbers not attending the event) and the environment - of mega gatherings like the Red Rocks Rendezvous, Creekster, etc. Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Mar 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of the bottle
Bruce... thank you for doing that.

In my opinion we don't need to bulldoze all of the old artifacts away.

so this is a access fund deal.... meth
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
363 points
Mar 22, 2016
Marc801 wrote:
If the community is going to have a conference about fixed anchors, there should also be time devoted to the negative impacts - to both climbers (esp climbers not attending the event) and the environment - of mega gatherings like the Red Rocks Rendezvous, Creekster, etc.


At the last one, those issues were discussed extensively.

In the past, the AF has planned to post the conference online. I do not know if that's the case this time around, although my understanding of the goals for the conference are to share and discuss long term bolting issues, so they should be available to those actually doing the work.

I'd suggest contacting the AF if you want to be a part of the event or have questions about it.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.