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The Fuse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter & Scott Nykerk
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 9, 2010

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A.K.A. Ticking Time Bomb. The gem of the crag. A nice, clean climb that has excellent movement and is deceptively hard.

Climb big, incut holds at the start with reachy moves past the second bolt. Moving just left of the second bolt latch a nice left sidepull and a good edge before clipping the third bolt. Get set up and move hard right to a good, slanting sidepull. Move to a match on slopey, uneasy holds and clip the fourth bolt if you can. Or, better yet, make one more move to a small, incut hold out left and clip the fourth bolt. Then, make a big move to a horizontal seam where you can try to shake out before clipping a fixed stopper and cranking out the final moves with the use of a finger jam and some nice holds on the face. The name comes from the nature of the second half of the climb, during which every hold seems to invoke a “tick, tick, tick” of the time bomb about to go off in your forearms and the fact that clipping the fourth bolt seems to be one of the greatest challenges to this climb.


Climbs the face just right of the wide crack.


4 bolts and a fixed stopper plus the anchor.

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