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The Furnace

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backburner S 
Balance of Power, The S 
Black Hole Sun S 
Easy Bake Oven, The S 
Every Man's An Island S 
Fire in the Mind S 
Incinerator, The S 
Love Me, Love My Route S 
Sideshow S 
Solarise S 

The Furnace Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 1,000'
Page Views: 1,481
Administrators: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2009

87° | 75°

87° | 74°

90° | 74°

89° | 74°

86° | 74°

83° | 73°
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


A south facing crag that gets sun early and late. Only the bases of some routes are in the shade of trees and the upper parts are scorching, and long enough to make you feet it. Still the rock is solid, the routes consistent and fun, and the climbing continuous.

From left to right the routes are:
1) Easy Bake Oven/Sideshow (5.8/5.9)
2) Backburner (10b)
3) Balance of Power (12a)
4) Incinerator (11d)
5) Solarise (10b)
6) Free the Mind (9+)
7) Unknown New Route (10c)
8) Love Me, Love My Route (10b)
A cave back behind and left of the cliff contains one additional route called
8) Every Man Is an Island (10c)

Getting There 

Start up as for Crazy Horse, but take a left at the first switchback at a well-marked sign to go down and right below the base of the cliff. Continue right for a few hundred yards past a bulky and blank overhang that faces SW, and onto the South face with large hanging tufas and a large cave. This is the main Furnace Wall.

The start of 'Easy Bake' will not be easy to see, so the first obvious route at the right of the trees is 'Backburner' and the one up through the left side of the cave is 'The Incinerator.'

Climbing Season

For the Crazy Horse General Area area.

Weather station 13.3 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Furnace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Furnace:
The Balance of Power   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Furnace

Featured Route For The Furnace
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh focused on the clip on Balance of Power

The Balance of Power 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Asia : Thailand : ... : The Furnace
One of the best climbs at the crag. Some great 5.11 climbing leads from the right tufa, across the face on a few generous pockets to a stance on the top of the the left tufa. Make the most of the rest. from the 4th bolt the difficulty increases severely, the technical crux here consists of tiny crimps which you wobble up on a prayer. But you're only halfway, a brief stint of more 5.11 climbing gets increasingly difficult as the climb steepens. One super powerful move then guards the anchor. Not ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on The Furnace Add Comment
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By Dean Kure
Mar 5, 2012
there is a new route to the left of the rightmost route. it goes at 5.11b-ish. fantastic! 30 meters, 14 bolts. 4 stars

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