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The Funky Dan 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Nick Sullens
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Jan 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Myself on the upper crux

Description 

A classic dihedral route! Easy climbing up to the start of the thin crack in the dihedral, followed by scary low 11 climbing protected by blue tcu's and .3's. One crux low at about 11c, followed by an easy hand crack to a small ledge. The second crux is the tough bit and involves funky stemming and palming to bypass a section where the crack thins to nothingness. Awesome and sustained.

Location 

The next route to the right of Sandworm and maybe 20 meters before the Staircase of the Elves. Look for a long left facing corner. Cleaned and equipped by Mike Dobie ( Thanks dude!).

Protection 

Gear from 00 to 3. Single 00, 1, and 2. 6-7 .3/ blue tcu's, 2 each from .5 to .75 and #3s. A # 7 nut for the upper section is nice.


Photos of The Funky Dan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper section
The upper section
Rock Climbing Photo: Staring down the upper crux
Staring down the upper crux

Comments on The Funky Dan Add Comment
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By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Dec 14, 2015

Amazing route - one of the highlights of the trip. Nice work Nick! I just want to chime in that it has cleaned up well and nothing PG13 about it - bomber gear the whole way. Plus you can place a whole set of stoppers on it!

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