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The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko S 
Finland S 
Full Premium, The S 
Half Premium, The S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Mission Accomplished S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Prudential Crack T 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Unknown  S 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

The Full Premium 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 21, 2015

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The wonder that is the Prudential.

Description 

(Note: The route known as "The Premium" has been divided into two route submissions: The Half Premium and The Full Premium. The Half Premium ends at anchors on the midway ledge, and the Full Premium continues past those anchors to the top of the cliff.)

The Full Premium follows a towering inside corner up the center of the Prudential. Start with technical and thin stemming moves up a clean gray dihedral. These moves lead to rounded jugs and eventually the midway ledge. The Half Premium ends here.

Above the ledge, climb the orange dihedral by using powerful and technical moves. Once you top out the dihedral, continue up 20 more feet of slightly easier rock to the top of the cliff.

The Full Premium is one of the mega-lines of Rumney and should be in the same conversation as Predator, Beat Junkie, Urban, and Giant Man as one of the best pitches on the hillside. The upper dihedral is often wet; therefore, a tick of the Full Premium is an elusive one. Many who attest to having climbed "The Premium" have only done the first half.

Protection 

10 bolts to anchors


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 27, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This thing will be haunting my dreams for a bit after falling on the last real hard move today exiting the upper corner to gain a jug. Motivation to get back after it soon armed with improved beta and rested muscles.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 4, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Just a quick year and a half and the above concerns have been alleviated. Today I took one run up to hang draws and re-sus moves (and figure some new beta to get around the wet patches), took a 30 minute rest and sent it :)

side note: this was the last sport route I hadn't done on the Pru... Having checked thoroughly I can say this cliff is STACKED with quality climbs. Once the ravens move out I guess I have to climb "Losing My Life". That should be fun!

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