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Full On Father , The T 

The Full On Father  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Evan Mathews, Tony Chang (August 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Late June through early October (depending on snowfall)
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: A. Ginger on Aug 18, 2017

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The Full On Father follows the red line. Dotted re...


"Back in the day, when I went alpine climbing I had to hike uphill both ways!" -Dad

The Full On Father takes the best looking line up North Buttress and is just as adventurous as the name suggests. This route was bolted on lead from free stances without hangs or falls so some spice is to be expected but through generally great rock quality.

Pitch 1, 5.7
Start about 30ft uphill from the very tip of the toe of the buttress, just to the right of an obvious crack system. Follow cool crack features on awesome rock placing gear to a shallow break capped by a short overlap. Move to the right side of the break to a bolt just over the overlap. Move past another bolt over the overlap and follow cracks and grooves up and right to a ledge staying right of the tress to a bolt belay. Runner things well.

Pitch 2, 5.10
Move just up and left from the belay and follow broken cracks with gear to a bolt heading towards a large left facing feature. After a #4 placement, move up and right around the feature and onto the face to a bolt. From here follow ever distancing bolts through good rock and climbing to a ledge. Make a runout but very easy traverse right across the ledge to two more bolts before pulling onto another ledge. Follow easy ground straight up to an obvious tree belay. Runner things well, takes almost an entire 70m line!

Move the belay about 60 feet right traversing a small ledge system to a nice flat little belay space just above some small trees. It's nice to stay roped up for this.

Pitch 3, 5.6
Climb the obvious easy wide corner and pull up into a small 4th class chute. You can climb a pre-existing bolt line following large cracks and grooves (looks to be 5.6ish, not sure of the anchor situation up top) straight up to the summit or continue up the short 4th class chute and over a small rise to a bolted belay below the last pitch of The Full On Father.

Pitch 4, 5.8
Climb up awesome rock following a crack that quickly narrows to a seam past bolts staying to the right of a small shrub and follow broken cracks and a bolt with ever easing difficulty to the summit. Bolt belay.

To descend, see the descent beta listed on the North Buttress page.


Single rack to #4, nuts, 6-8 quickdraws, 8 alpine draws, a minimum of 6ft of webbing for the tree belay at the top of pitch 2, and a 70m rope. Wear your helmet.

Photos of The Full On Father Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony making his way to the summit.
Tony making his way to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Racking up to bolt the last pitch.
Racking up to bolt the last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan heading towards the crux on the second pitch.
Evan heading towards the crux on the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony starting up the first pitch.
Tony starting up the first pitch.

Comments on The Full On Father Add Comment
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By TSpiegelberg
From: Sheridan, Wyoming
Aug 25, 2017

Nice dudes!

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