|Type:||Trad, 14 pitches, Grade VI|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Achey and Levin, 1996|
|Submitted By:||slevin on Oct 16, 2001|
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|Comments on The Free Nose||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Michael Komarnitsky
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2001
How about a nice pat on the back and a hearty thank you?
I continue to be impressed by the routes that you add, both for their rigor and your write ups. Let's see, what could we throw your way? some trango gear? BRC passes? coffee? Oh yeah, we've got some really sweet gps world supply mouse pads and stickers, just give me an address and I'll send those right over.
By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2002
|There was a fixed wire at the overhang on the first 5.11 pitch left by the FA party which was since been removed. Now that section is borderline x-rated and quite heady, if not outright dangerous.|
By chris righter
May 3, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
I thought it might be helpful to have some updated rack beta. We didn't bring Lowe Balls and didn't really see anywhere they would be needed. We had a grey #4 BD and used it, but you could definitely get by without it. Simulclimbing the first 4 pitches saves a ton of time and gets you into the 5.12- stemming dihedral with plenty of shade. The route goes into the sun around 10am. At the first 11+ pitch, there is a perfect placement for a purple/blue offset Mastercam that takes the sting out of the spicy crux move.
1 x grey/purple and purple/blue offset Mastercams,
1 x c3 grey to red,
1 x blue and yellow mastercams,
1 x 0.3 to # 3 BD,
1 x red and yellow Linkcams,
1 set RPs,
1 set med wires,
By Jay 1975
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Climbed this rig on 5/30/15 and the first 12- pitch, the pin 10' above the belay fell out and needs to be replaced, a LA, otherwise it's 20' to first piece and you'd hammer the belay if you fell. The nut is back in on the first 5.11 roof.
Hardest, sustained, and headiest 12 I've tried in the canyon compared to Lost Cities, Hotlanta , Tague Your Time, Cheap Hooker, Twisted, Eighth Voyage of Sinbad, Air Voyage, The Diagonal, but maybe I was just out of shape for wall climbing antics, I'll know next time.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 23, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Amazing route and adventure! A couple things to add:
I don't know why the first 11c R pitch needs a fixed nut. If it's not there, it's a good stance to place it. This pitch seems to scare many away. More should give it a go. There is a great offset cams placement right by the nut.
On the first 12 pitch, I didn't replace the pin, though Jay1975 gave it to me. It's no harder than 10+ to your first piece and 15 ft up. There is a great slider nut in that pin scar now.
Some of the pins need replacing eventually on that upper 5.10 pitch.
More people should do this route. One of the coolest positions and topouts I've done in the canyon. Oh ya, beg your partner to let you lead the steep pitch after the traverse and right before the crux. I didn't beg and should have! Mega!
Offset cams were nice to have down to small. Simul the start, and it goes fast.
Thank to the FA team for piecing this one together!