REI Community
search
Grand Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cruel Shoes T 
Free Grand, The T 
Grand Wall, The T 
Left Side, The T 
Roman Chimneys T 
Shadow, The T 
Stairway to Heaven S 
University Wall T 
Upper Black Dyke S 
Wall of Attrition T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Free Grand 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: FCFA: Scott Cosgrove
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 2,445
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Oct 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The Grand Wall can go completely free via a number of harder variations to the original line.
The Free Grand combines fun enduro laybacking with delicate face climbing in a spectacular position on the wall.Climb Apron Strings, Merci-Me, and the traverse to the base of the pillar but belay at the first station below the short bolt ladder.

Var 1: 5.12a/b. Start up the thin corner as for 'The Left Side' then clip a bolt out right and make a series of face moves to the base of the right side of the pillar, then up the pillar to the awesome belay ledge at the top. This avoids the short bolt ladder to the right.

Var 2: 5.13a. Climb the Sword but instead of grabbing the chains at the top, continue laybacking up the arching corner as for the 'Underfling'. At the last bolt before the original hanging belay, pull a cool mantle with some thin crimping to a station at a no hands rest.

Var 3: 5.13a. A short but tricky pitch. From the belay, traverse leftward along a thin ramp, a tricky move at the end gains the ledge below Perry's Layback. Maybe a bit soft for the grade, but a great pitch nonetheless!

Location 

See 'Grand Wall Area'

Protection 

Gear for the Grand Wall + extra draws and some thin wires for the start of The Left Side.


Comments on The Free Grand Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About