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The Fox Area
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The Fox 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Williamson and Bob Logerquist
Page Views: 22,670
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: You can't really miss this line. Credit chossb...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a very clean right facing corner a few hundred feet above the desert floor. It is a fantastic pitch on perfect desert varnish.

Start directly below the dihedral and follow discontinuous holds and finger locks 20' up to the dihedral proper. From here, climb the nice jam crack, gradually widening from thin hands to an offwidth section about 70' up the corner. A #4 camalot is mandatory for this section, two would be nice. Bring a #5 if you have one. After a few secure wide crack moves (some face holds are helpful here too), you will surmount a slight bulge and continue up a low angle 5" crack to the top. The descent is easy and obvious.


to 5"

Photos of The Fox Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston L leading The Fox
Weston L leading The Fox
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a great route! Into the meat of the fist sect...
Such a great route! Into the meat of the fist sect...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ooooooooooooooh, The Fox!
Ooooooooooooooh, The Fox!
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up just past the small roof
Climbing up just past the small roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Styling The Fox
Styling The Fox
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful beginning thin hands section
The beautiful beginning thin hands section
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay on the Fox
Clay on the Fox
Rock Climbing Photo: 'The Fox' top to bottom, blue TCU to #6 Camolot......
BETA PHOTO: 'The Fox' top to bottom, blue TCU to #6 Camolot......
Rock Climbing Photo: Weston L  on The Fox - Pablo P photo  (December 20...
Weston L on The Fox - Pablo P photo (December 20...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fox
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fox, Calico basin, Red Rock
The Fox, Calico basin, Red Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick, happy to have pulled through the crux. Credi...
Nick, happy to have pulled through the crux. Credi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fox
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the Fox, halfway, perfect hands!
Following the Fox, halfway, perfect hands!
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a great line takes every size!
Such a great line takes every size!
Rock Climbing Photo: Some good holds too
Some good holds too
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on my onsite of The Fox.  Pure fun!
Me on my onsite of The Fox. Pure fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The ...
This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lie Back Section!
Lie Back Section!
Rock Climbing Photo: Offwidth bit
Offwidth bit
Rock Climbing Photo: Good burly fun.  Photo by Lee Tomatsu.  Nov 2015.
Good burly fun. Photo by Lee Tomatsu. Nov 2015.
Rock Climbing Photo: Along the way up to The Fox.  Nov 2015.
Along the way up to The Fox. Nov 2015.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Mediatore on the opening moves of The Fox.
Jim Mediatore on the opening moves of The Fox.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow Williams leading the Fox
Dow Williams leading the Fox

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on The Fox Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2017
By Larry DeAngelo
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2005

Historical note: What's in a name?

On page 45 of the Supertopo Red Rock guidebook is a dramatic photo of this route by Greg Epperson. The caption reads, "Peter Kohl on the fabulous 8th Wave, Calico Basin." Where did THAT name come from? Here is the story:

The route was climbed in 1970 by local high-schoolers John Williamson and Bob Logerquist. "It was pretty intimidating," recalls John. "We did it a few times on top rope before we got up the courage to lead the thing." John and Bob named it "The Fox," which was in keeping with several other route names that referred to children's stories. The nearby "Riding Hood" and "Over the Hill to Grandmother's House" shared a similar reference to children's books. Soon afterward, John left Las Vegas to attend college. At the time there was almost no other climbing activity in the area, so the ascent was essentially unknown to climbers who were not personal friends of John or Bob. Over the next few years climbing activity picked up considerably as Joe Herbst began to make a more systematic exploration of the area. Interestingly, Joe's early activity started mainly in the south part of the range, while John was working from the north end, and the two climbers never met. One of Joe's apprentices was the later-to-be-famous Red Rock guide, Randal Grandstaff. A young Randal accompanied Joe on the first ascent of Tunnel Vision in 1974, and soon emerged as an accomplished climber in his own right. At this point the story becomes a little muddy. In the middle 1970's, Randal claimed a first ascent of the Fox dihedral, and apparently named it the "7th Wave." This was the first name that Joanne Urioste heard when she arrived in Las Vegas at about that time. Some other climbers who were active then also recalled the "7th Wave" name. In the 1990's, Randal was still claiming a first ascent when he was talking with author Todd Swain. Randal made his claim with such vehemence that Todd recorded the route as "first ascent: unknown" in order to not step on Randal's toes. The thing that makes the situation sticky is that, even in the 1970's, Randal had developed a reputation for exaggeration about his exploits, so many local climbers simply did not believe him. His case was not helped by the evolution of the name: was it still 7th Wave, or was he now calling it the 8th Wave, or something else? Some of the locals expressed their doubt by putting up a route that was facetiously named "No Wave," (this was the first couple of pitches of the route that was later expanded to become the Bighorn Buttress in Willow Springs).

In the late 1970's, John Williamson returned to Las Vegas. By chance, he met up with the Uriostes and did a few climbs with them. It was, coincidentally, on this trip that they teamed up to climb the now popular Olive Oil. John told them of his early climbs, and pointed out the Fox dihedral. Since John's ascent predated any possible Grandstaff ascent by several years, Joanne credited him with the first ascent and used his name, "The Fox," when she authored the 1984 guidebook. Before the 1984 guide gave the Fox name any kind of official status, there was a period where both names were circulating, and the one you heard was dependent on whom you heard it from. Since the Epperson photograph in the Supertopo guidebook dates back to early 1980's, it is probably safe to conclude that the route name came from someone on the Randal Grandstaff side of the story.
By L. Hamilton
Feb 3, 2005

That's a nice piece of history, Larry. Thanks for putting this together.

I haven't tried the route, but from your description it would have been quite something to lead back in 1970, mostly with pitons I presume -- even hexentrics and tube chocks were a year or two away. Bong-bongs take much energy to place, but they never gave me much confidence for free climbing on sandstone.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 8, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is simply amazing- to have led it in the 70's would have been bold beyond comprehension! It starts out with thin hands, but opens up quickly and by the time you're at the midpoint- your #4 camalots are already in use. I used 4 cams larger than the #3 on this route, including the #6 C4.

Great route, though...well worth doing!
By Jake Martin
Feb 28, 2005

Bring 2 4 camalots if you got'em and a 3.5 for the top. As mentioned, a 5 or 4.5 wouldn't hurt the cause either if your a bit sketch on the wide stuff. Sweet pitch, right on at 10 plus (and no easier).
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jul 29, 2006

A truly amazing climb! One of my favorite single pitch routes. I liebacked most of the route (on T.R.), which tore some of the skin off my upper palms, and fingers. Ouch! I suggest taping up. A worthwhile climb, with a short approach (by Red Rock standards),and an easy walk-off/descent. You won't be disappointed! Hell of a work-out, for me anyway!
This route is shaded in the afternoon, which makes it doable in the summer.
By meo
Nov 26, 2008

Never thought I'd get this one but it went down yesterday:)
I climbed it in sections utilizing three semi-rest spots with good foot placements. Bring one 5.0 or a 6.0 so won't have to run the last part of OW out.
There was no fixed anchor at the top. Someone chopped the sling. Plenty of options for a natural anchor.
By Greg starke
Mar 13, 2010

I did quite a bit of free climbing in this area and knew John Williamson until about 1972. Any climbing here is sure to be awesome if the park has been preserved.
Does anyone know where John is or what became of him? He was a true nature lover, last time I saw him was North Shore Lake Tahoe and he was living in an eloquent Tee Pee.
By Buster Jesik
From: Allenspark, CO
Apr 25, 2010

sweet pitch, could use a bolted anchor though
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 20, 2010

Almost half the route is bigger than #4 camalot size. I took one 4 and one 5 and felt quite runout, though the top 20 feet is lower angle and easy. Rack accordingly. No need for bolted anchor. Easy walkoff and belay takes bomber #1 and #2 camalots. Indian creek quality
By smassey
From: CO
Aug 30, 2010

But if there were bolts up top we could all TR it into submission without having to think about setting up an anchor... then it would get as grooved up as anything in IC since most folks would be too lazy to properly extend their anchor. No Thanks. Great gear anchor, great walkoff. If a few more cams on the harness cause you to blow the send, train harder.
By e Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 22, 2011

A #3 Camalot was the biggest I brought...and the top, while easy and low-angle, was pretty runout. A big cam would have made it more comfortable.
By Phil Esra
Nov 29, 2011

I placed a #5 and a #6. I brought a second #5 but never managed to unload it. Great climb--like an offwidth version of Indian Creek's Black Uhuru.
By 213blc
Feb 19, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

My first Red Rock climb.

By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Phenomenal! From fingers to chicken-winging in an OW, and I lost the skin on my elbows to prove it! Can be top-roped with a 70m (barely), but without extending the anchor there will be some solid rope drag. Decent semi-rests whenever it switches from fingers to hands, or hands to fists, or fists to "lets see what we can shove in there".
By bethan
From: Leaving Los Andes, Chile for Joshua Tree and British Columbia
Apr 17, 2013

Beautiful lead. A creek trip is in order for thin hands training. The OW is secure. The top OW is even more secure + leaving the #5 at your feet for a 10 foot runout isn't intimidating. I used 2 #1's and a #2 for the anchor directly in line with climb. No laybackng required but could be fun on TR for the pump. Friendly folks to chat with at the base. Also it was blowing from the SW 40 plus gusts at the parking area and the Fox alcove was completely protected. Will return for another lap :-)
By SirTobyThe3rd
Apr 1, 2014

Would have lines at the base even at indian creek.

green alien (can be backed up with a blue alien) to protect the bouldery crack at the start. 1 .5 1.75 2 1s 1 #2, 2 4s 2 3s 1 #5, No 6 if you are comfortable on lower angle easy but awkward slanting OW
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Another vote for gear to 5". Also save some 0.5-2 camalot gear for the anchor.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
May 26, 2014

Did this the other day. Classic crack. Someone slung the boulder at the top with a rope for an easy way to anchor. Left some blood on the wall halfway up. Also you can TR it with 70 with easy with plenty of rope left over.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 29, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb. Perhaps over graded if you are accustomed to Indian Creek Corners already. Hard part is #3 camalots. Top part is wide but not so hard. Don't let the grade intimidate you. The climb is worth the try.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Nov 21, 2015

felt like a second 5 would be more useful than a 6. evidently there're now bolted rap chains on top. led with a 54m rope and did the easy walkoff
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jan 17, 2016

There's a bolted rap anchor at the top now and you can rap to the base with a single 60m.
By TactiCool
From: Republic Of Korea (Temporarily)
Aug 22, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Didn't unload my #6 but could have unloaded more than one #5 and #4.
One of the anchor bolts is loose, possibly a spinner. I didn't have anything to try and tighten it. Other than that, the hardware looks good.
By Brian Braunstein
From: Schaffhausen, Switzerland
Nov 28, 2016

On sighted this with a suboptimal rack, here's what i wish i had in BD sizes.

1x .2, .5 - 1
2x 2 - 4
3x 5

Could skip the second #3 too, i only used 1

I jammed a #6 in place of having a third 5 and almost got it stuck. 60m rope works but care must be taken because it only reaches the very top of the easily scramblable area above the comfortable belay stance, knots highly advised.
By erik Ingebretson
Feb 25, 2017

The bolted anchor is gone:( unfortunate considering that this is an amazing single pitch and the anchor was in a great place. Also, you can lower off of the top with a 70m. Just knot your end!
By ewetzel
Feb 26, 2017

Yep, anchor is gone -- found it easy to build one though with approximately a BD #1 & #2, and little yellow metolious. Great climb!
By Trevor Rhodes
From: Fredericksburg, VA
Mar 26, 2017

Absolutely stellar climb. We were expecting a bolted anchor per previous posts, but found the bolts had been chopped.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Aug 17, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Whoever chopped the anchor bolts on this thing did a very poor job. Why bother chopping if you aren't going to patch and fill?

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