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The Fourth Wise Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FFA Sam Schmetzer, FA Matt Myers. 9-28-2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,139
Submitted By: MattMyers on Sep 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Building the anchor


Start by steming in the corner then commit to the face staying left of the bolts and finish up to the anchors. Still a little dirty so be careful.


The almond colored hangers left of Three Kings.


Sewn up with 6 bolts, chain anchor.

Photos of The Fourth Wise Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fourth Wise Man (5.7), Frustration Creek
BETA PHOTO: The Fourth Wise Man (5.7), Frustration Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam and Matt on the FA!
Sam and Matt on the FA!

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By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route with fun moves. I only gave it one star because it is still quite dirty, but with some more traffic it will clean up and be a two or three star route.

For some fun, the route can also be done without using the left hand side of the corner at all, this bumps the rating to probably 5.9, but it makes the route feel much more sustained and once clean, would definately be three stars.
By MattMyers
Oct 17, 2012

Thanks for the input Ken! I have cleaned it alot but it is still kinda dirty, the bottom holds have changed/broke. a couple more cleaning runs and it should be good.
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very well protected climbing up a left-trending feature to a definite crux at the last bolt. Taller climbers will have a much easier time reaching the good holds and consequently find it a tad easier.

Also, what's up with the two sets of anchors at the top?
By MattMyers
Mar 21, 2013

Thanks for the cool topo Chris! The left anchor is one of my unfinished projects called birthday blunt.
By MattMyers
May 6, 2013

About the rating, If you use the dihedral its 5.7 or climbing using only face holds goes about 5.9, both ways are fun!
By Westin Southern
From: Redlands, California
Sep 29, 2014

Decent route, relatively short. Definitely easier if you're taller, especially getting over the crux at the last bolt. Be cautious of the feature on the left. We pulled down some pretty good sized unstable slivers in the crack.
By Bob Klaas
From: Long Beach, CA
Dec 12, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this on 12/10/2016. Short but fun route. Lots of features. Still a fair amount of dirt / brush on ledges. Anchors are clean. Bolts are clean. The first ascent I climbed to the right at the crux. The second time I climbed it was on top rope, I stayed to the left at the crux. I feel that going right is a fair bit harder than going left. Try both!

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