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Citadel
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Forrest/ Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation), The 

The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation) 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a A2+

   
Type:  Aid, 4 pitches, 540', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a A2+ [details]
FA: Jeremy Aslaksen and Joe Forrester
New Route: Yes
Season: When ever you can handle it
Page Views: 1,013
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Oct 17, 2012

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The citadel

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at the southernmost base of the tower. P1: Follow Beak seam to crack, then pendulum right into another loose beak seam. There is a very large, very detached flake on this pitch that the leader would be wise to not drop on his belayer. P2: A rope stretcher. Travel up and right to finally meet up with the Forrest/Briggs after 185 rope stretching feet. P3-4: Follow the Forrest/Briggs to the summit. P3 climbs the arete. P4 goes straight to the summit.

Location 

Southern end of the Citadel. The beak seam that you start on is pretty obvious.

Protection 

5-#1 beaks, 5-#2 beaks, 5-#3 beaks, 2-3 spectres, triple rack of cams including offset aliens to #2 camalots, 2-#3 camalots, and a 4 and 5 camalot. On the first two pitches, no bolts were placed on lead. Two bolts are present on the top of P1 for an anchor.


Photos of The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On P1, tensioning over into next beak seam.
On P1, tensioning over into next beak seam.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Citadel
Summit of Citadel
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset below Gothic
Sunset below Gothic
Rock Climbing Photo: Flying the Jolly Roger at the top of P1
Flying the Jolly Roger at the top of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping from the top of P2
Rapping from the top of P2
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Aslaksen cleaning P3
J. Aslaksen cleaning P3
Rock Climbing Photo: J. Aslaksen starting P2
J. Aslaksen starting P2

Comments on The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation) Add Comment
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By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Nov 2, 2012

Dude, great summit. Persistence pays off.
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Apr 7, 2013

Nice work guys! Looks wild