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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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The Formula 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 1980
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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  • Description 

    It's hard to miss this route when walking up to Rincon from the Cirque of Cracks on the West Ridge. Located on the prow just left of the Pool Of Blood dihedral is The Formula. The equation is this: a burly one move wonder over the roof into the dihedral + stemming to the upper roof + turning it onto the slab = an exciting pump. The pin at the start is a bit flexy, but its possible to place a #2 Rock just above it.... Rap off of slings around a small tree. I think the route is worthy of a new bolt anchor over the upper roof!

    Addendum: there is a new bolt anchor.


    Sm/med nuts, 0.75"-.4" cams, 3.5" piece (equipped with 2 pins). Rap slings on high tree (junk!).

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    Comments on The Formula Add Comment
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    By Chris Archer
    Nov 30, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced.
    By Lance Cockwood
    Feb 12, 2004
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Great route
    By StanL
    From: Louisville, CO
    Feb 23, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Powerful, technical crux down low, fun stemming up high. Some questionable rock in a few places, mostly on the upper roof. Thanks for installing the bolted anchor!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 17, 2015
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Here is some first ascent history. I established this climb on Feb. 18, 1981. There were originally 5 pitons. Two side by side knifeblades to protect the crux start & 3 poor upwardly driven pins in the .10d roof. I didn't trust any of the upper 3 pitons & finally removed the worst of the upper 2 pins because the route was controversial for the number of pins used. The rest of the climb was protected on RPs up the dihedral & a #1.5, 4 Friend, & 5 RP past the upper pins. The climb was originally .11d because the foothold at the base of the dihedral was flat & better. Then much of it broke away making the crux start harder at .12a/b. I used to do this climb often. It has been many years since the 1980s that I was last on this route. I wouldn't trust the first piton anymore.

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