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Tarot Wall
Routes Sorted
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
Tower, The S 
Wheel of Fortune S 

The Fool 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Christine Damiano 2001
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Acting the fool on the upper portion of the route.

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  • Description 

    The fourth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start just left of a low roof jutting out over the trail.

    Climb into a left-facing corner (hard) and then left and into another left-facing corner (crux). Easier climbing leads up a narrow face using the arête on the left. At the last move I used a crack on the right.

    10d seems about right by Boulder sport ratings. It took many up and downs before I figured out the move into the second corner. It's insecure, and there are several options.

    Protection 

    7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.


    Photos of The Fool Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route. The crux is at the bottom of the photo.
    BETA PHOTO: The route. The crux is at the bottom of the photo.

    Comments on The Fool Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 24, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Awkward climbing; my least favorite route on Tarot Wall.

    The ledge at the start is very narrow with a steep drop-off; consider anchoring the belayer to the nearby tree.
    By Michael Amato
    Aug 1, 2005

    Yeah, sort of awkward and grungy down low... some nicer moves up above, though still a bit grungy up there, too.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 17, 2005

    I thought this was a very enjoyable climb... somewhat similar to Wheel of Fortune (two climbs to the right), though with a slightly more bouldery start.

    Agree with Ron that the belay area is very narrow. If the leader fails on the first clip, leader and belayer can both tumble down to the creek. Consider anchoring for sure.
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Jul 17, 2008

    Two more routes have gone in and this is now the 6th bolted line from the left as you're looking at the second tier.
    BA
    By farkas.time
    From: Storrs, CT
    Jul 26, 2013
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta.

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