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Fold, The T 
Wedge Smear 

The Fold 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: 1985 Rudi Kranabitter & Ferdl Taxbock
Season: Summer to Early Fall
Page Views: 3,740
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jul 10, 2011

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3-pin anchor at the top of Pitch 10. As of 2017, t...

Description 

Approach: 1 hour
Descent: 2-3 hours
Climb: 5-8 hours
Sun Exposure: All Day
Length: 11 pitches
Difficulty: 5.8 PG13
Rack: Double set of cams from tiny to 3" (#3 camalot), some nuts (optional RP's), knifeblade and baby angle pins (also optional).

The Fold is a spectacular climb up a rib of Mount Kidd. The views are spectacular and the climb is right next to Kidd Falls. The climbing is on mostly good to excellent rock with good pro on the crux sections. However, the climb is still very adventurous and skill at building belays with limited options is an asset. Bolts / fixed pins are few and far between, but the route is safe (PG13) and no pins are needed (as of 06/2011) if comfortable at the grade.

Be very wary of large loose blocks (particularly pitch 7) as this route has not received nearly as much traffic as other classics in the area.

I felt Direttissima on Yamnuska was technically much more difficult, but with much easier routefinding and belays.

P1: Climb out of the gully, just uphill of the tree on the ridge, through easy ledge systems to gain the ridge. Fixed nut right where you turn onto the ridge.

P2: Head up an easy groove with good pro, then traverse left onto loose ledges below a headwall.

P3: A hidden fixed pin down low and another 1 move up the wall protects the opening moves onto the somewhat overhanging crack system. Easier than it looks and good pro.

P4: Easy scrambling leads to another steep section of wall. Belay on right in a good crack or do a seat belay from the nice flat platform.

P5: Climb the steep juggy wall with decent to good pro. Belay above at a huge grassy ledge with a good crack.

P6 "The Wave": Climb the right side of the wave to an awesome hand crack with excellent pro once you get there. Either belay at the crack (semi-hanging) or finish the crack, climbing up and left of the roof and belay just above on the right side of the roof (easier than it looks) at a decent crack and great ledge. Beware of rockfall at this belay! Alternatively, climb on top of the wave (stay left for whole pitch) at an easier grade, but no pro.

P7: Be VERY CAREFUL starting up the next pitch as there are several LARGE and LOOSE death blocks. Easily avoided, just watch what you pull on. Climb this left side of the ridge back up to and on the ridge proper. Continue up to a semi-hanging belay on the right. Search for the best crack on the right.

P8: Climb up the ridge, trending right till you're almost in a chimney with the dropoff just on the right. Place an excellent small cam in a semi-hidden crack and climb straight up the face with an exciting mantel to the ridge. 2 pins to belay from, one is 10' above the first.

P9: Direct variation: Climb straight up the sweet looking groove avoiding the loose rock in the very center of the groove corner. Good pro on the left side face. Excellent 5.8 climbing! Belay at a 2 pin anchor just above the groove.

P9 original route?: Trend hard right and up a grey wall with jug holds to gain the scree ledge. I didn't climb this, so not 100% sure about the desc.

P10: Somewhat confusing. Climb up and left to clip a pin, follow a crack up and head right on easier ground, then back left to a mantel onto a scree shelf. A #3 RP (micro nut) protects the 5.6 mantel. Carefully head up the scree slope (very loose) and climb one more short rock band (good cam placement) to another scree slope. Belay off a fixed pin (at the foot of the headwall) and a #3 cam in a ledge crack on the left. "Interesting, yet solid belay".

P11: Climb the steep yellow juggy short 5m wall just above and right of the pin. Pro is crap and rock is crap, but it's really short above a huge flat scree ledge. Once on top, saunter across scree to back wall and shiny 2 bolt anchor. High five you're second when they arrive and slam summit brews in preparation for the epic rap.

Location 

Approach: Same as for the Kidd Falls ice climb. Park at the Galeta Trail parking lot off the Kananaskis Highway 40. This is a well marked trailhead parking lot with outhouses and trash. Follow the trail downhill and across the suspension bridge. Cross one more smaller bridge and there is a trail map sign at a "T" junction. Head RIGHT for a few hundred meters to the first obvious dry creekbed. Follow this up for a few hundred meters and you'll find a well beaten trail that leads all the way up to Kidd Falls and the Fold. Head up the hillside left of the Fold gully and traverse across the gully at an easy section start the climb just uphill from a big tree growing on the Fold Rib.

Descent: From the two bolt anchor at the top of the route: rap 10 meters to a semi-hanging 2 bolt rap station on climbers left. From here it's 1 60m double rope rap, or 2 single rope raps using a completely free hanging intermediate station (beats me how they got those bolts placed). Rap down into the void (knots in your rope wouldn't be a bad idea) and touchdown on a huge scree slope. From here follow cairns (poorly marked) back down. We went really far right (descenders right) to circumvent a cliffband, then headed back really far left to regain the main ridge. Follow the ridgeline down, trending left whenever possible. Once into the main forest, the grassy knoll leading back about 200m shy of the base of the Fold will present itself. Head back down the Fold / Kidd Falls approach trail.

Protection 

Double set of cams from tiny to 3" (#3 camalot), some nuts (optional RP's), knifeblade and baby angle pins (also optional).


Photos of The Fold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap 1. Single rope works here.
Rap 1. Single rope works here.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of pitons on the route. No need to bring your...
Lots of pitons on the route. No need to bring your...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo was taken at the top of The Fold. If yo...
This photo was taken at the top of The Fold. If yo...
Rock Climbing Photo: At end of Pitch 8, go left of chimney up steep wal...
At end of Pitch 8, go left of chimney up steep wal...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing steep juggy wall on Pitch 11 to finish th...
Climbing steep juggy wall on Pitch 11 to finish th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome exposure (belay at top of Pitch 7).
Awesome exposure (belay at top of Pitch 7).
Rock Climbing Photo: updated from the "Kananaskis Obscure" pd...
updated from the "Kananaskis Obscure" pd...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leader high on Pitch 5.
Leader high on Pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Loose blocks at start of Pitch 7. Fortunately, can...
Loose blocks at start of Pitch 7. Fortunately, can...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grippy limestone on Pitch 3.
Grippy limestone on Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 traverses ledges to tree.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 traverses ledges to tree.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ramey Topo - 2011_07. "P" = piton placem...
BETA PHOTO: Ramey Topo - 2011_07. "P" = piton placem...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap 2, a hanging rappel. We had 2 ropes so we made...
Rap 2, a hanging rappel. We had 2 ropes so we made...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting off Pitch 8.
Starting off Pitch 8.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the base of the rappels, we scrambled down a ...
From the base of the rappels, we scrambled down a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Kidd, The Fold (5.8 PG13, 10 pitches)
Mount Kidd, The Fold (5.8 PG13, 10 pitches)

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