The Flying Jib
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BETA PHOTO: The Flying Jib 5.10
Angle up the dirty slab from the right to reach the base of the obvious flake. Clip a bolt, then pull up into the flake and follow it to two more bolts which protect the final, crux face moves.
This thing was thoroughly cleaned ten years ago; dunno what it looks like now.
The Attitash Crag has a few distinct and somewhat separate sections:
- Lowest on the hillside, and to the left as you face the cliff, is the low-angle slab where Seasonal View, Three Gems and several other good pitches are found. This slab is bordered on its right (uphill) end by a bulging buttress with a steep, bolted arete (The Spinach Arete).
- Around to the right from here you pass a broken section of cliff before you arrive beneath a short, low-angle slab leading to a vertical wall with a right facing flake running up its center. This is The Flying Jib.
- 50' right of the Jib is a steep buttress jutting out from the main wall; The Torch Buttress. The front face of this formation holds two short pitches: one is still an open project, as far as I know, and the other a bolted corner/arete/roof pitch, Torch.
- 25' right of Torch, on the overhanging wall extending back right from the front face of the Torch Buttress, is the crack line of Short Fuse.
Three bolts, stoppers, and some medium cams will get you to a two-bolt LO anchor.
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jul 25, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun route. Takes good pro.
A small single rack of cams gives you lots of options for gear the whole way up the crack. No need for doubles of anything.
Get on this! The bottom slab needs some more traffic, it's a bit dirty.