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The Flying Beast 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 9,242
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from Lukas Wiborg

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Dan Levison on Flying Beast (12d). Photo by Adam ...

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  • Description 

    This is a great route and certainly one of the best 12ds in the area. Kudos to Mark for bolting it. Climb a slopy steep slab at the far right end of Easter to a big roof with a corner. A hard move gains the corner and another hard move allows an exit over the lip. Look for the hip-scum rest before committing to the last crux.


    6 bolts.

    Photos of The Flying Beast Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ted sticking the first of 10 very sweet moves thro...
    Ted sticking the first of 10 very sweet moves thro...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Gabi and Alex.
    Gabi and Alex.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Gabi Masse cruising.
    Gabi Masse cruising.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The first big move to get fully established on the...
    The first big move to get fully established on the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Reeser just after the opening campus move get...
    Matt Reeser just after the opening campus move get...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Making the reachy move to get established on the r...
    Making the reachy move to get established on the r...

    Comments on The Flying Beast Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 18, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 19, 2004

    13a - powerful and MUCH harder than Evermore.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Sep 20, 2004

    Note: The previous comment is from the same AC downrating Nevermore. If you had a hard time with Flying Beast and an easier one with Nevermore, maybe one route suits you better. Ease up.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 25, 2005

    This thing is stout, kneepads anyone?
    By ac
    Jul 12, 2005
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    A very bouldery route, basically a 10-move V5 boulder problem with a couple hard clips, but this is nowhere close to 13a. Maybe on the Boulder Canyon scale you could argue 13a, but at Rifle this would clock in at closer to 12c, even without the knee-bars or hip-scums, which I did not find. Similar in difficulty to Nevermore, maybe a titch harder or easier depending on your strengths.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 26, 2006

    Physical, athletic movement -- 12d/13a; a high-quality route...
    By Alan Doak
    From: boulder, co
    Jul 3, 2008

    The guidebook I have says 12d/13a. I wonder if the consensus would fall closer to there if it were an option on mountain project. I don't want to labor the point since I feel that a lot of the disagreement over grades is because they are dissected so finely. It's just that 12c/d is an option, but 12d/13a is not.
    By Blake Cash
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    Aug 6, 2009

    What's with all the slash grades? They make something that is already highly arbitrary even more meaningless. Take the lower grade and move on.
    By S. F. Pitman
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 3, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Felt like a 13 to me, but whatever. Certainly seemed harder than anything else I've done at Easter, but notably a totally different style too.

    It's nice that there are draws hanging on it. They were in pretty good condition as of 30 April, 2012. The last few clips are kind of tenuous, so be aware. They aren't really dangerous, just kind of unsettling.

    Regardless of any grade controversy, this is a very fun route. One of the best in the area (unless you hate slopers).
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 6, 2012

    I thought it was solid 11a. C'mon, people. Who cares what the grade is. 13a or 12d is more or less the same, remember? Great route nonetheless with some fun bouldery movements and some challenging clips with a fun finishing move which I couldn't seem to figure out for the life of me until someone showed me. As of 5-5-12, this route is in need of some fixed gear replacement. The very last fixed draw before the anchors which people seem to whip upon a lot is extremely worn on the side where it attaches to the hanger. Not sure if you're going to get this bugger off without a hacksaw. If I get around to it this summer, I plan on replacing the draws with steel permadraws, although the bolts and hangers look like they could use an update as well. Overall, still safe the way it is, but I give the last permadraw a couple more big whips and it's gonna snap off. So, I would hang your draw on that one until someone replaces it. Enjoy!
    By Mike to the B
    May 16, 2012

    GEAR WARNING:The fixed draws on the Flying Beast need to be replaced (or removed) ASAP. If I had tools with me yesterday, I would have removed them.

    DO NOT use the 3rd fixed draw, the fixed link in direct contact with the bolt is badly warn and will break with a good fall. If you want to climb this route in the interim, bring your own draws.

    Be safe, scared the SH#t out of me and my partner when we saw the condition of this gear.
    By S. F. Pitman
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 18, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    If you guys really feel like the condition of the hardware is that bad, and especially if you think it is dangerous, you should think about using the "condition report" function.

    Personally, the draws didn't look that <%.
    By Mark Rolofson
    May 25, 2012

    "Flying Beast" has been one of my favorite routes in the canyon since I established it in 1995. The reason that I gave the route a slash grade is because it is a very height- & reach-dependent climb. For me, it is 5.12d, not 5.13a because I am tall. I find "Nevermore" to be just a bit harder, even though it could be rated 5.12d/13a as well. Slash grading makes a lot of sense to me. It is easy to argue over grades, and as a guidebook writer, I have learned no matter hard you try, you will never please everyone. When I look at a route's difficulty, I ask myself what's the hardest you would a climb & what the easiest. Is it soft for its grade or stiff?

    As for fixed draws. I never considered putting fixed draws on this route. I have redpointed it at least 25 times & cleaning it is not that bad. I think some routes & certain bolts should have fixed chain draws because cleaning them is extremely difficult or bad for your rope. "Mighty Dog" in Clear Creek is one good example and I put the chain draws on that route. It seems like more climbers want to turn the crags into an outdoor gym. Today's redpoint style was yesterday's pinkpoint style. If you have redpointed a route with the draws on it, the next way to up your performance is to redpoint the route 1st try of that day hanging the draws. I have done this on "Flying Beast" a few times. Usually I have redpointed it second try, after a hangdogging up the route I place the draws. That said I don't care that someone fixed draws on this route, but they do need some maintenance from time to time.

    I can't imagine that the 1/2" Rawl 5 piece bolts need an upgrade, because this route sees very little rain down its ceiling. I will take a look at the draws & bolts soon however. I have much experience replacing bolts, & if any these bolts need replacing, they can removed and the same holes used again. If you don't know how to do this, then don't bother replacing them, I will.
    By S. F. Pitman
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 28, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Thanks for posting, Mark. I'm definitely a shorter climber 5'6", -1 ape, so that is probably why it feels .13 to me. Regardless, the route is excellent and the movement incredibly fun.

    I just went up there again yesterday, and I have to say, the condition of the hardware is fine to me. The hangers are totally fine, and the fixed draws are in good condition...maybe getting slightly weather worn but not in need of immediate replacement. On the chain draw, the final thin link is questionable, but has been reinforced with a carabiner, so it is isolated and out of the system. I've certainly whipped hard on much worse.
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Oct 25, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Right knee pad helps w/ last two clips. Commenting as a really tall climber, any advantage one gains in one part of the route is later negated. For example, I can reach through the lower crux but have to campus to get fully established in the corner - I have yet to see anyone do lower crux statically. I have noticed that smaller climbers are not nearly as bunched in the middle section of the business. Also, shorter climbers can cop a second kneebar to shake just before the finish, but taller climbers can not.
    By w.elliott
    Oct 31, 2016

    I essentially tick-tacked up this thing statically. The key was bat hanging through both cruxes. It would be 11d at Rifle, CO (apparently)....
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 18, 2017

    To the above poster, I would very much like to know how you did that. What do you mean by tic-tac? Also, please explain what you mean by bat-hanging.
    This route feels like a bolted V5/V6 boulder problem to me, and I wasn't able to get a single productive kneebar.
    Perhaps if you are downgrading most of the routes by at least a full number grade, you can explain to us what you are doing so well that the rest of us aren't. It seems to me that you troll.

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