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The Dude Ranch
Routes Sorted
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Celibate Rifle S 
City Slickers S 
Cromag S 
Curly S 
Flake, The S 
Funny Face S 
Getty Up S 
Hidden Agenda S 
Offwidth T 
Redneck S 
Roughneck S 
Roundup, The S 
Voyeur S 

The Flake 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: G Halsne on May 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Flake beta

Description 

A committing move from the gully start gets you high over the floor and the gains you the first bolt. Don't biff! It will hurt. Follow the line to a blank face and decide if you will go hard or go home. Harder moves to the left would warrant a harder 10 grade, or stick to the right to stay 10a.

Location 

Find the main wall with under "Hidden Agenda" and "Voyer" To the left starts an upward gully scramble that leads to the Upper Ranch. This climb starts about 10 feet up the gully and can be identified by low bolts and obvious juggy low holds that will put you into an airy stance. If you are looking at page 240 in the Mayr guide...Dont. ( based on that topo, you would be looking at #928, 929 being the "Offwith Chimney"

Protection 

Bolts, shares anchors with Funny Face.


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By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 16, 2016

Barn-door start leads to easier climbing then kinda hard top-out. I stayed right of the last bolt. It would be nice if this route had its own anchor; a follower or top-roper would take a bit of a swing if they fell off the last few moves.

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