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4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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Bonsai T 
Bubbles T 
Crazy Woman Driver T 
Cruise Control T 
First Wave, The T 
Friday's Friend T 
Perfect Wave T 
Petroglyph, The T 
Silver Surfer T 
Super Slab T 
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 
Tsunami T 

The First Wave 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FRA R Hall & S Matz Aug 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up at "First Wave". P2 ...

Description 

The left-most route on the Perfect Wave Slab, this climb takes the straight-up line on the white rock just to the right of the brownish rock the marks the end of the Mid-Section. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step, or Silver Surfer.

START- Just a few feet right of where the climber's path meets the cliff.

P1 - Climb up the darker "base" slab to a 1 ft overlap (gear, overlap has a small birch tree on its far right), step over and then move diagonally right, up to a ledge with a small maple tree. Belay here ( bolt & piton rap anchor) 70-80 ft 5.3- 5.4 (Pretty much the same as Take a Giant Step and Perfect Wave.)

P2 - Move back left 15-20 feet, then directly over the overlap on clean, white rock (gear, small wires or TCU's). Continue on incuts and small ledges (gear possible at flake on right) to a stance below the one bolt. Climb past the bolt (crux, 5.8 G either on the right or left). 15 ft higher there is a rather unique placement for the "blue" Black Diamond wired stopper (photo) and continue on to ledges* (gear). Continue up the easy slab above. Most will want to move up and right to the double bolt anchor at the top of Silver Surfer, but the FA continued straight up golden rock, stepping left (off of the "PW Slab" itself)to finish at a triple-trunked oak, sight of the once "mankyest anchor in NH". [photo in Super Slab] 180 ft 5.8 G / 5.5-5.6 PG
* These ledges were the original belay for "Take a Giant Step" and could be used as as an alternate belay.

Protection 

Small-to-medium wires or TCU's, medium wire nut (Blue BD Stopper"


Photos of The First Wave Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope on the overlap for First Wave, and Littoral Z...
BETA PHOTO: Rope on the overlap for First Wave, and Littoral Z...
Rock Climbing Photo: No Cams Here ! Nut placement about 15 ft above the...
BETA PHOTO: No Cams Here ! Nut placement about 15 ft above the...
Rock Climbing Photo: On P2 of "First Wave"
BETA PHOTO: On P2 of "First Wave"

Comments on The First Wave Add Comment
Show which comments
By petr07 Lindahl
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

tried to run the route in a single pitch on a 70 meter. didn't quite make it....maybe if you place almost no gear and don't meander at all.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
May 26, 2015

I'm usually pretty accurate with my pitch lengths, given in the text as 70-80ft + 180 ft, or about 250 ft. (70m = 228 ft) R. Hall
By petr07 Lindahl
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No no. Sorry. Comment wasn't intended to mean that anyone reading your text might assume that a 70 would reach. Mostly just saying the height and nature of the rock tempted us to try it in a single pitch...and that was a mistake. (Hadn't read your description before getting on it, tbh).

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