The Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress)
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Alex at the p2 crux. Photo by Brandon Gottung
P1: 20m, 5.6. This memorable veg-pitch has you hand-over-hand vine-pulling with good stems. A short chimney bit under a tree leads to a ledge (and the VPN Crack). Climb up the wild honeycomb features then carefully traverse to belay.
P2: 33m, 5.11+. Slightly overhanging tight hands to a shallow, featured corner, out a small hands roof to an awesome crack switch then steep widening hands to the anchor. Phenomenal the whole way! Skip the first anchor (27m) and continue to the narrow ledge (33m).
P3: 25m, 5.13d. Slightly overhanging offwidth pod to a section of fists and a handjam rest before the business(!) - 15 meters of every jam being smaller than the last starting with tighthands pinching down to the final finger lock up the 35 degree overhanging calcite covered headwall. Unbelievably aesthetic and challenging. Freed by Logan Barber in May 2015.
P1: one quickdraw and a couple cams to #3.
P2: One .5 and .75, two or three each #1-#3. Optional #4.
P3: One .4, two each .5-#1. One #2, #3 and #5.
Alex starting up p2. Photo by Brandon Gottung
Cedar climbs the vines on P1
Brandon Gottung on pitch two. Photo by Garret Brad...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at P2 and P3.
|Comments on The Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress)
From: Dali, Yunnan Province, China
May 21, 2015
Update as of May 2015:
Australian Logan Barber finally freed the line! Even though the route is considerably longer and harder than Liming's now second-hardest route, Air China (5.13d), Logan still grades the Firewall as a .13d, though it will, like most routes, need more ascents to finally settle what the grade is.
Still, Liming's--and likely Asia's--hardest trad line is up! Go try it! I tried on TR, following Mike Dobie on a burn of the route, and even though it was well out of my pay grade, the route is insanely outrageous and highly aesthetic! If you ever wanted to "enduro-crack-boulder" on a deep red, overhanging face above a stunning valley that looks like it should be populated by dinosaurs, go give it a try!!!