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Cretaceous area
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Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress), The T 
Soul's Awakening (half) T 
VPN Crack T 
Wind of the Valley T 

The Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress) 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: P3 FFA: Logan Barber, P2 FFA: James Cherry
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 25, 2013

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Alex at the p2 crux. Photo by Brandon Gottung

Description 

P1: 20m, 5.6. This memorable veg-pitch has you hand-over-hand vine-pulling with good stems. A short chimney bit under a tree leads to a ledge (and the VPN Crack). Climb up the wild honeycomb features then carefully traverse to belay.

P2: 33m, 5.11+. Slightly overhanging tight hands to a shallow, featured corner, out a small hands roof to an awesome crack switch then steep widening hands to the anchor. Phenomenal the whole way! Skip the first anchor (27m) and continue to the narrow ledge (33m).

P3: 25m, 5.13d. Slightly overhanging offwidth pod to a section of fists and a handjam rest before the business(!) - 15 meters of every jam being smaller than the last starting with tighthands pinching down to the final finger lock up the 35 degree overhanging calcite covered headwall. Unbelievably aesthetic and challenging. Freed by Logan Barber in May 2015.

Protection 

P1: one quickdraw and a couple cams to #3.
P2: One .5 and .75, two or three each #1-#3. Optional #4.
P3: One .4, two each .5-#1. One #2, #3 and #5.


Photos of The Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex starting up p2.  Photo by Brandon Gottung
Alex starting up p2. Photo by Brandon Gottung
Rock Climbing Photo: Cedar climbs the vines on P1
Cedar climbs the vines on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon Gottung on pitch two. Photo by Garret Brad...
Brandon Gottung on pitch two. Photo by Garret Brad...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon Gottung on P2.
Brandon Gottung on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at P2 and P3.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at P2 and P3.

Comments on The Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress) Add Comment
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By RyderS
From: Dali, Yunnan Province, China
May 21, 2015

Update as of May 2015:

Australian Logan Barber finally freed the line! Even though the route is considerably longer and harder than Liming's now second-hardest route, Air China (5.13d), Logan still grades the Firewall as a .13d, though it will, like most routes, need more ascents to finally settle what the grade is.

Still, Liming's--and likely Asia's--hardest trad line is up! Go try it! I tried on TR, following Mike Dobie on a burn of the route, and even though it was well out of my pay grade, the route is insanely outrageous and highly aesthetic! If you ever wanted to "enduro-crack-boulder" on a deep red, overhanging face above a stunning valley that looks like it should be populated by dinosaurs, go give it a try!!!