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Fire Sermon, The T,S 
Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 
Wasteland, The T 

The Fire Sermon 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 3, 2012

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Crux corner on pitch four


A four pitch route that shares the start of the Wasteland.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 160'): Start at the grungy corner that the Wasteland also begins at. Climb up and left on to the ledge, then work your way up to an obvious thread-through with many slings on it. Clip the slings and stem through a 15' high concave section protected by two bolts. Follow a pillar-like feature straight up toward two trees. Belay at a bolted anchor between the trees on a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.9, 120'): Climb up and a bit right following bolts protecting a slab. As the slab ends you will climb through some broken rock to a ledge. Only a few pieces are needed on this pitch.

Pitch 3 (5.10-, 170'): Work your way up past four bolts, then move left to a ramp. Climb the ramp and continue up on bolts and gear to big chickenheads. Traverse directly right (above the first big roof on the Wasteland) to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10-, 160'): Climb up and slightly right to a bolt on the right side of a small roof. Clip it and traverse right toward a steep-looking corner. Get into the corner (the crux) and climb it to its end. Clip a final bolt and climb another 30' of easy ground to a two bolt anchor at the top.

Use the Wasteland rappels to descend.


Start to the left of the Wasteland below a large thread through with a number of slings wrapped around it.


Stoppers, singles of cams from tiny to #3 Camalot.

Photos of The Fire Sermon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcy on pitch two; Jimbo in the background at the...
Marcy on pitch two; Jimbo in the background at the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcy leading pitch three
Marcy leading pitch three
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcy on pitch 1
Marcy on pitch 1

Comments on The Fire Sermon Add Comment
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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 4, 2012

"He, the young man carbuncular, arrives,
A small house-agent’s clerk, with one bold stare,
One of the low on whom assurance sits
As a silk hat on a Bradford millionaire."
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 8, 2013

Contrary to Geir's description this route is spectacular from bottom to top. If you're going to take the time to do this route do not finish on Wasteland. The 4th pitch is a must do.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoyed the first 2 pitches. At the top of the 2nd, I would recommend traversing right for the amazing 3rd pitch of The Wasteland (at top of the chimney). After that you can continue on the Wasteland to the summit or rejoin TFS for the top out. Be warned though, the 4th pitch corner of TFS is literally covered in bird sh*%.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 25, 2014

A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:
By George Bracksieck
Jan 10, 2017

On Jan 2, 1992, I led Teri Ebel up the first pitch of what is now this route, before traversing right, onto the Wasteland's second pitch. There were no in situ bolts or slings on what is now this route. Because of the lack of good pro, I thought this was 5.10.

I had overlooked the inobvious original start to the Wasteland. Because our late start, the long approach and short day, we rapped three times from the top of Wasteland's third pitch, using two ropes. On the last rap to the ground, my route-finding mistake became evident.

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