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Routes in The Wasteland
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After the Before Thought S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Burial of the Dead, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Sermon, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rickson's Pinnacle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Roedel Route, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Teenage Wasteland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wasteland, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,863 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Nov 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A four pitch route that shares the start of the Wasteland.
If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 160'): Start at the grungy corner that the Wasteland also begins at. Climb up and left on to the ledge, then work your way up to an obvious thread-through with many slings on it. Clip the slings and stem through a 15' high concave section protected by two bolts. Follow a pillar-like feature straight up toward two trees. Belay at a bolted anchor between the trees on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 120'): Climb up and a bit right following bolts protecting a slab. As the slab ends you will climb through some broken rock to a ledge. Only a few pieces are needed on this pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.10-, 170'): Work your way up past four bolts, then move left to a ramp. Climb the ramp and continue up on bolts and gear to big chickenheads. Traverse directly right (above the first big roof on the Wasteland) to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10-, 160'): Climb up and slightly right to a bolt on the right side of a small roof. Clip it and traverse right toward a steep-looking corner. Get into the corner (the crux) and climb it to its end. Clip a final bolt and climb another 30' of easy ground to a two bolt anchor at the top.
Use the Wasteland rappels to descend.
If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 160'): Start at the grungy corner that the Wasteland also begins at. Climb up and left on to the ledge, then work your way up to an obvious thread-through with many slings on it. Clip the slings and stem through a 15' high concave section protected by two bolts. Follow a pillar-like feature straight up toward two trees. Belay at a bolted anchor between the trees on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.9, 120'): Climb up and a bit right following bolts protecting a slab. As the slab ends you will climb through some broken rock to a ledge. Only a few pieces are needed on this pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.10-, 170'): Work your way up past four bolts, then move left to a ramp. Climb the ramp and continue up on bolts and gear to big chickenheads. Traverse directly right (above the first big roof on the Wasteland) to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10-, 160'): Climb up and slightly right to a bolt on the right side of a small roof. Clip it and traverse right toward a steep-looking corner. Get into the corner (the crux) and climb it to its end. Clip a final bolt and climb another 30' of easy ground to a two bolt anchor at the top.
Use the Wasteland rappels to descend.
Photos
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