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The Fin - South Ramp
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 11
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Larry Coats |
| Page Views: | 2,370 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Marsters on Dec 22, 2016 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Note there are two features named "The Fin" in the Sedona area. This one is just west of The Acropolis and pretty much the first feature due north of Sedona proper. Point 5667 on topo. E-W trending and quite narrow N-S. This one is a fairly fun and unique sandstone outing.
Route (see below for approach):
At the base of the ramp, scramble up and left/west. Mostly easy punctuated by short 4th-low fifth steps. Three steps stick out: the first is a loose juggy feature one can climb up and over or traverse due left (sketchy). The second is a dihedral with an unfortunate yucca top out and rap station around a tree. The third is a frictiony mini-arete. Some may want a rope or handline for the last two.
At the top of the ramp, there's a good spot to rope up prior to stepping over to the W ridge.
Pitch 1 (or 2 if you roped on the ramp, 5.4, short): traverse up and hard left to get around a block. Quite short but plenty of drag going around the block. Reach two bolts.
Pitch 2 (5.7, short): Continue up the ridge and step right onto the face. Sandstone slab with a good bolt at the base (as of 11/2016) and air below. Continue up and belay at a headwall that takes decent gear. Note a two bolt rap station anchor off left.
Drop gear and scramble east to the summit (10-20 min). Mostly class 2-3 with a couple spots of airy 4th. Some may want a handline or a spot on the way down.
DESCENT: Scramble back to the top of pitch 2. Two bolt rap (30 ft? Slings may need replaced) and walk over to the two bolts at the end of pitch 1.Two bolt rap (60 ft) back to the ramp above the friction step. We rigged a retrievable handline here off bushes. Scramble down to the tree above the dihedral step with a static line anchor. Rappel no. 3 (90 ft) down to the side to hike/scramble off terrain.
Route (see below for approach):
At the base of the ramp, scramble up and left/west. Mostly easy punctuated by short 4th-low fifth steps. Three steps stick out: the first is a loose juggy feature one can climb up and over or traverse due left (sketchy). The second is a dihedral with an unfortunate yucca top out and rap station around a tree. The third is a frictiony mini-arete. Some may want a rope or handline for the last two.
At the top of the ramp, there's a good spot to rope up prior to stepping over to the W ridge.
Pitch 1 (or 2 if you roped on the ramp, 5.4, short): traverse up and hard left to get around a block. Quite short but plenty of drag going around the block. Reach two bolts.
Pitch 2 (5.7, short): Continue up the ridge and step right onto the face. Sandstone slab with a good bolt at the base (as of 11/2016) and air below. Continue up and belay at a headwall that takes decent gear. Note a two bolt rap station anchor off left.
Drop gear and scramble east to the summit (10-20 min). Mostly class 2-3 with a couple spots of airy 4th. Some may want a handline or a spot on the way down.
DESCENT: Scramble back to the top of pitch 2. Two bolt rap (30 ft? Slings may need replaced) and walk over to the two bolts at the end of pitch 1.Two bolt rap (60 ft) back to the ramp above the friction step. We rigged a retrievable handline here off bushes. Scramble down to the tree above the dihedral step with a static line anchor. Rappel no. 3 (90 ft) down to the side to hike/scramble off terrain.
Location
From the Mormon Canyon paid parking lot, note the big sandstone fin ahead and to the right (northeast). The goal is to climb the large left-angling ramp up to the left/west side of the summit.
There are two lower toes on the feature - one to the left and one central. Bushwack and game trail it to the central toe below the middle of the face (15 min). Hike and scramble up to the first bench. A 10-ft high 5th class wall stops progress. Traverse left on an improbably ledge until reaching the left toe. Scramble up until another 8-ft wall and find a weakness left (5.0 followed by 3rd class). Meander up cactus, sand, and rock to the start of the ramp near the middle of the face.
There are two lower toes on the feature - one to the left and one central. Bushwack and game trail it to the central toe below the middle of the face (15 min). Hike and scramble up to the first bench. A 10-ft high 5th class wall stops progress. Traverse left on an improbably ledge until reaching the left toe. Scramble up until another 8-ft wall and find a weakness left (5.0 followed by 3rd class). Meander up cactus, sand, and rock to the start of the ramp near the middle of the face.
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