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Animal World
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Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
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Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
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Global Gorilla S 
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Threshold Of A Dream S 
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Tuesday Afternoon S 
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We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

The Fifth World 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,380
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 21, 2002

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Pretty cool route.

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  • Description 

    The Fifth World starts just left of "Hands of Destiny" on the eastside of Animal World Rock. Climb up some short corners using gear to reach the first bolt. Make a move right and then up passing the first and second bolt to a series of technical moves up small, thin seams. Clip the third bolt and reach a good hold. Angle left and up into a V-slot. Climb out of the slot and follow a tedious crack up a vertical wall to the anchors. Great climbing on excellent rock. One of the best routes at the crag.


    Use medium gear to reach the first of 11 bolts. Rap from a two-bolt anchor.

    Comments on The Fifth World Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 19, 2003

    I wouldn't call the rock quality on the lower section through the crux excellent. Maybe after a few dozen ascents it could be ok; for now it's quite flakey and dirty-- a far cry from that on 'Hands' and the rest of the popular routes at upper Animal World.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 28, 2003

    Not sure I'd call it one of the best routes at the crag, however, it is worth a go. In its current state, it is rather unpleasant due to seemingly zero cleaning. Look out below or risk an endless showering of dirt, lichen, crumblies, and guano.....
    By Aeon Aki
    Mar 29, 2010

    Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars!
    By Pinklebear
    Mar 19, 2012

    In Sven Speak: this route is very tough for the fingers; I did not make flash. You must arrive to the fourth bolt at five meters with a preparation for crimping. It can be helpful also to prepare a long sling or double draw already on this bolt to facilitate clipping. Above here, you will find many meters of fun and pumping 6c (5.11) that is not so tough for the fingers after all.
    By richard magill
    Mar 20, 2012

    That is high quality Sven-speak, not too much, not too little, just right.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 20, 2012

    For the flash, maybe three plan trainings is OK. Clippings, clippings, then problems, then is easy?
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 3, 2013

    I was actually quite impressed with this route. I have always overlooked it given that 2 mega classics sit just to the right of this line. The crux is a bit weird and scrunched, and there is super fun pumpy 5.11 climbing after it. You don't need gear getting to the first clip. It's super chill, just climb with caution through the rotten rock. All in all, a decent route and one you should get on one day if you have done all of the other routes on the wall.
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    May 30, 2013
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

    This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross left hand to a crimp sidepull in the seam then switch your heel to a toe hook (this is the crux for me). Then move left hand to lieback pinch release toe hook and throw to the jug. For me, this route is solid 12c. I have a hard time even taking the slash grade, because the crux alone is V5 either way you do it. Also, don't underestimate the upper crack, it's just tricky enough to spit you off. Awesome climb, should get done more.

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