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Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Bulge T 
Chatsworth Chimney T 
Fiend, The T 
Howard's Fifty Footer T 
Mantle Fiend T 
Mickey Mantle T 
Pink Royd T 
Sensuous Corner T 
Tango S 
Toxic Waltz T 
Ultimatum T 

The Fiend 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, June 1972
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: First bolt is a bit run out, to protect place cam ...


The Fiend is a quality thin face route. When the rock exfoliated, it left a few long, 1/2 inch wide edges that you can use for traverses. A 20 foot runout up to the first bolt is quite scary - the runouts above are milder. Rappel 90 feet from a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the top. This climb is in the sun all day.


5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

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By C Miller
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

A direct start (5.10 left variation or 5.11 right variation) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up to join the route at the 3rd bolt.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 23, 2013

5 bolts my ass! I only counted 3. Truly one of the scariest runouts I've encountered. The worst part is that I couldn't SEE the second bolt from the first because it is around a corner. It's there but...
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 1, 2014

I really like this route. I'm surprised it only has two stars. I think it's equal in quality to most of the other routes on the wall. I know some fret about the move to the first bolt, but it's pretty standard Suicide-type climbing.
By Tradoholic
May 11, 2015

Way too much faith is needed in your rubber to gain the first bolt.

I think you were off-route Jim. After clipping the second bolt go straight right for 10ft to gain the 3rd.