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The Fellowship Direct (aka The Mothership) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lawrence Haas, Casey Smith
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,119
Submitted By: cleatis on Jul 28, 2013

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Law nearing the crux roof of the Fellowship Direct...

Description 

A direct variation to the traversing 2nd and 3rd pitches to the Fellowship. Starting at the anchor of the top of the first pitch, look for a bolt just below the lip of the roof and a dozen feet to the right. Start up the slab, placing a medium sized nut or TCU to protect the belay. The first bolt should be visible now. Clip it and tackle the first roof. Climb easy terrain past two more bolts to a immaculate slab. Hard slab climbing leads to a arching roof formation. The crack may be seasonally wet, and may seep after rain, but can be climbed regardless. Protect the entry into the roof section with a large cam, and start up corner, and clip a couple more bolts. Crimp out the roof, up balancy face, to the steep and pumpy top out.

Due to its length (58 meters!), pitch changes, and small wanderings, using long runners early and often (especially under roofs) is highly recommended to prevent rope drag.

Location 

Alternative 2nd pitch to The Fellowship. Starts at the anchor at the top of pitch 1, finishes at anchor at the top of the Fellowship's 3rd pitch.

Protection 

Stoppers or small cams, #3 Camelot optional to protect runout under arch. 13 bolts. Lots of alpine runners.


Photos of The Fellowship Direct (aka The Mothership) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ty's Fellowship topo with Direct variation in blue...
BETA PHOTO: Ty's Fellowship topo with Direct variation in blue...

Comments on The Fellowship Direct (aka The Mothership) Add Comment
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By Emily Reinsel
Apr 2, 2014

I climbed this variation shortly after the FA- sometime in the beginning of August 2013. I had a blast on it and was impressed by its quality- much more solid rock than pitches 2/3 of the original line. Its a long, challenging pitch but the most difficult parts are protected by bolts. Not enough bolts to pull through the cruxes though- you definitely have to climb it. Great addition to Ross Peak!

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