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The Faux Pas Arete 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Bouchard
Page Views: 3,055
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 1, 2009  with updates from jim.dangle

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Brian down low on Faux Pas.


The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.

The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.

To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.


Bolts. Gear to set an anchor, either at the top or the bottom of the pitch (or both).


The best way to access this route is from the top. Locate the exposed ledge where Recompense tops out. This ledge is about 50 feet below the tourist overlook and is accessed by a walk around to the right (south) and under the overlook via a worn trail.

It's also possible to access this route by climbing Recompense and diverging from the big corner at the obvious foothold/ledge that marks the start of the Faux Pas Arete. This approach would require leading the pitch, which is a somewhat scary proposition.

Photos of The Faux Pas Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing arete climbing... Torie
Amazing arete climbing... Torie
Rock Climbing Photo: What an amazing place for a beautiful climb!
What an amazing place for a beautiful climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: While this photo is not of any technical part of t...
While this photo is not of any technical part of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: FPA is best described as side pulling on the arete...
FPA is best described as side pulling on the arete...

Comments on The Faux Pas Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Arsenault
Oct 26, 2009

John Bouchard did the 1st ascent
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Oct 26, 2009

Thanks Steve.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 21, 2013

Does anybody else find that it is a lot easier staying on the right side of the arete until the very top? I just TRed it, but couldn't help thinking "why aren't the bolts over here?" Must have been from bolting on the lead. It was beautiful climbing on the right, flowed nicely and great positioning. Felt like easier 11 that way.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 22, 2013

I'm pretty sure it was rap bolted on the f/a..? never tried it on the right side.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 10, 2015

Next time I do Recompense I will have to lead it proper but it was so FUN!

Mark- I stayed left of the arete for the first half then went around to the right and back left to the top. It seemed intuitive that way for me... I didnt see much around the corner that I liked for the first half...

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