|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Trevor. on Feb 25, 2014|
|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
|Comments on The Father||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 11, 2014
This is one of the absolute BEST TRAD LINES AT THE CLIFFS! There are a few stones still rattling around in the hand crack but, after climbing this line many times, Im certain that very few of them will ever come out. There was also a death block just under the roof and it is now gone. There is a little flakey rock but most of it is cleaned up.
Climb a hand crack (with plenty of other options for hands and feet) to the underside of a roof, place a few smaller pieces of gear and then pull out of the left side of the roof to a no hands rest on a ledge. You feel incredibly exposed at this point, as theres no real place to put gear, so make sure you have good gear below your feet before you pull the bulge to the chains. If you really want protection here, there is a tiny crack (took a .1 camalot) just over the top of the bulge that you can use to protect the final move to the chains. Rap to the right of the crack at the top. This will not only take you straight down your line for cleaning but if you start your rap into the dihedral, your rope can easily get stuck in small crack at the top of the bulge. DONT MISS THIS ROUTE!! It is amazing.
By Michael Beasley
From: Boise, ID
Sep 13, 2015
|Fantastic route! Probably the best trad at the cliffs that I have done. A little dirty in some spots but not bad. Highly recommend it.|
Mar 22, 2017
|I think a foothold broke off below the roof recently making the moves a little more stiff. Felt like solid 5.9 to me.|