REI Community
Mid Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
409 T,TR 
Ajax S 
Almer Casile Memorial Buttress S 
Arrow, The T 
Bad Ethics S 
Boulder Holder T 
Bwana the Mighty Metolious Hunter S 
Chicken Wings T,S 
Fat Ankles S,TR 
Father, The T 
Heat Miser S 
In Vitro S 
In Vivo S 
Kip to a Handstand S 
Little Boots T 
Little Flower T,TR 
Loaded Gun T 
Lucky Pierre S 
More Than I Can Chew S 
Nash-e-mun S 
Nikita T 
Number Nine T 
Nut 'n a Sling T 
Orientationally Confused T 
Potato Flake T 
Prominent Crack T 
Puffer, The S 
Rectal Cranial Insertion T 
Snake Eyes S 
Spear, The T 
Squirt Gun T 
Steep Disorder T,TR 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Swallow S 
Sweat Engine S 
Tidy Up S 
Wizard's Sleeve S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Father 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Trevor. on Feb 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The route. Climb the hand crack until you are und...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.


This is a pretty cool route with great exposure at the crux. It goes up a scaly crack to a roof, then left at the roof. The moves to get out from under the roof are the crux. It takes great pro the whole route as long as you're careful about the flakiness in the lower crack.


Maybe 50ft right of Sweat Engine?


Gear including a #3 Camalot. Anchors recently replaced with beefy stainless + chains.

Comments on The Father Add Comment
Show which comments
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 11, 2014

This is one of the absolute BEST TRAD LINES AT THE CLIFFS! There are a few stones still rattling around in the hand crack but, after climbing this line many times, I'm certain that very few of them will ever come out. There was also a death block just under the roof and it is now gone. There is a little flakey rock but most of it is cleaned up.

Climb a hand crack (with plenty of other options for hands and feet) to the underside of a roof, place a few smaller pieces of gear and then pull out of the left side of the roof to a no hands rest on a ledge. You feel incredibly exposed at this point, as there's no real place to put gear, so make sure you have good gear below your feet before you pull the bulge to the chains. If you really want protection here, there is a tiny crack (took a .1 camalot) just over the top of the bulge that you can use to protect the final move to the chains. Rap to the right of the crack at the top. This will not only take you straight down your line for cleaning but if you start your rap into the dihedral, your rope can easily get stuck in small crack at the top of the bulge. DON'T MISS THIS ROUTE!! It is amazing.
By Michael Beasley
From: Boise, ID
Sep 13, 2015

Fantastic route! Probably the best trad at the cliffs that I have done. A little dirty in some spots but not bad. Highly recommend it.
By CThornton
From: Boise
Mar 22, 2017

I think a foothold broke off below the roof recently making the moves a little more stiff. Felt like solid 5.9 to me.
By Sean Sullivan
From: Boise, ID
Aug 7, 2017

Super fun route. Committing crux. Small nuts would have been helpful for the final moves to the anchor; sadly, I forgot to bring them.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About