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The Farson-Larr (extension to The Larson-Farr) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Matt Farrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Matt Farrell on Mar 14, 2016

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


The Larson-Farr is a classic, beautiful Creek-style #1 C4 splitter, however, the splitter continues past the chains through two roofs. I went and pushed the line to its logical endpoint above the 2nd roof. Its sweet to lead the whole thing (Larson-Farr and Farson-Larr) as one big pitch.

After climbing the Larson-Farr, start with a laser-cut section of .75 C4s right off the chains, then climb up under the first roof on some face holds and get a full no-hands rest. Pull the thin hands roof (with good feet on the wall), and continue up a vertical handcrack to the 2nd roof. The 2nd roof starts #1 C4s and widens to a #4 C4 before grabbing jugs. The anchors are immediately past the second roof. Two big bomber bolts with chain and coldshuts.

The best way to do the line is to just climb both pitches as one single long pitch. The rack isn't that huge, and ropedrag can be managed pretty well. 2x 60m ropes will get you down easy.

Apparently you can lower with a single 80m, though I have not done it myself. I would imagine that you have to clean all the gear as you lower in order for the 80 to reach.

The line is a bit sandy, but all loose rock has been trundled, and it will clean up nicely with a couple ascents.


Continuation of the Larson-Farr.


For the Farson-Larr, bring:
1x .3 C3
2x .4 C4
2x .5 C4
3x .75 C4
1x #1 C4
2x #2 C4
1x #3 C4
1x #4 C4

See the Larson-Farr page for what to bring for the 1st pitch.

Comments on The Farson-Larr (extension to The Larson-Farr) Add Comment
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By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
May 4, 2016

I like your name of the extension. Fun play on names. I had thought about getting back out there and extending the climb but never had the right partner at the right time. Good job.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
May 4, 2016

Thanks Gordon! Good find on the first pitch - really fun route!

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