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The Farmhouse

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Bowling Alley 
Prow, The 
Sunny Side 

The Farmhouse Rock Climbing 

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Location: 31.69124, -110.42815 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,814
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Oct 15, 2014
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The Farmhouse from the road.

Access trail crosses a private ranch MORE INFO >>>


A rarely climbed crag features high quality rock and long routes.
There are three main areas. The Sunny side is about 300 feet high and a couple hundred yards wide of vertical or slightly overhang high quality rock (South-east facing). The shaded Prow (with no routes on it yet) and the Bowling Alley areas face north with some serious steep climbing. There is great potential for development in this area.

Getting There 

From Tucson: take I-10 southeast to highway 83. Follow on Hwy 83 south past Sonoita unto Hwy 82. The turnoff for The Farmhouse is 14.7 miles from the junction of 82 and 83. Alternatively, stay in I-10 to Benson and turn south in Hwy 90 towards Sierra Vista for 19 miles. Then turn west on 82 towards Sonoita for about 4 miles. There are two different approaches to the crag:

1- East Approach: Turn onto a dirt driveway with a gate on the south side of 82 next to a “No Passing Zone” (about three miles from Hwy 90). This is a construction site within private land. DO NOT BLOCK OR DRIVE IN THE GATE. You can park outside on a the dirt road to the left of the gate. Cross the gate and follow the dirt road for a few hundred feet, then cross the grass field to a faint trail following a wash. Cross the wash onto a grassy flat area up to hillside on the east side of the rock formation. Climb the hill up to the cliff band. This is a spring and fall crag, but can be climbed at during the winter. Most of the routes are in the shade and never see the sun. Plan on an hour approach, the last forty minutes of which are up a steep hill.

2- North Approach: Park on a turnoff on the north side of 82 just east of a bridge four miles from Hwy 90. This is also an exit to a dirt road so DO NOT BLOCK IT. From here cross and walk along the road into the wash under the bridge. This is private property but the land owner is OK with using the wash. PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL so we keep this privilege. Follow the wash for about 1/8 mile into a large open area and find a cairn on the south side. Follow faint trail and cairns across a boulder field and steep terrain all the way to the base of the crag. This trail is much shorter but very steep at the end (some serious trail works needs to be done), but is also in the north hill so it will be on the shade in the mornings. Distance from car to the crag is about 3/4 of a mile, it takes about 30-45 minutes, but times are getting much better as the trail improves.

Climbing Season

For the Southern Arizona area.

Weather station 7.5 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Farmhouse
Photos of The Farmhouse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: tmac on under where? 5.12
tmac on under where? 5.12
Rock Climbing Photo: Afternoon view of Sierra Vista and Huachuca Mounta...
Afternoon view of Sierra Vista and Huachuca Mounta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Luis cooking up something special!
Luis cooking up something special!
Rock Climbing Photo: Copy of topo from TSSC guide by Tyler McMillen
BETA PHOTO: Copy of topo from TSSC guide by Tyler McMillen

Comments on The Farmhouse Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 2, 2014
By jbak
Oct 16, 2014
Luis...Tyler's map is pretty mis-leading. The "east" face of the Farmhouse is actually a SOUTHeast face. Big difference in terms of sun/shade and climbing temps.

And I'm smiling when I read "high quality rock". Maybe in places, but some of it is about as treacherous and nasty as rock can be. I levered off a couple of refrigator sized blocks and a lot of choss when putting up my aborted 3-pitch route on the SE face.
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Oct 16, 2014
Haha... good to know jbak. The rock does look great and solid in that area, but we need to start getting on it to tell for sure. Vince and I do have a knack for finding very choosy lines. Is your 3-pitch route the one that goes up a small roof?
By jbak
Oct 16, 2014
The left side of the SE face is a formation I call "The Pillar". My route is just to the right of that. It's the left-most route on the whole formation I'm pretty sure. There is a cache of SS bolts at the bottom. If you find them, go ahead and use them. The route is not completely finished, maybe I'll come along and finish it after it cools down a bit more.

The route that Tyler mentions (route 1 -- 3 pitch open project) is NOT the one I started. Route 1 is just left of the short 5.11a (route 2) and looks pretty decent. When I asked how hard it was I think Todd said 12c. Although in that case it wouldn't be a project for long because those guys woulda crushed it. Several of the routes marked project have probably been done. Todd would know.
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Oct 17, 2014
Cool, got it... I think I know exactly which one is your route. I will like to get all this sorted out in the following weeks and keep updating this page as we get more info. I'll try to contact Todd. I think this crag deserves some more attention. Let's see how many sportos are not too lazy to do a bit of hiking.

BTW, do you know if any of the cracks have been climbed? I saw a few lines that can go as mixed moderates or intermediates.

It will be great if you come. I'll rig a big tarp for shading and refreshments
By jbak
Nov 3, 2014
I saw Todd last week and told him he should come on here and add info about the existing routes and clear things up. He told me all of the projects on Tyler's topo have been sent except for maybe one. I'll ping him again about posting. He wants to head down there later in the month.
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Nov 3, 2014
By Todd McGregor
Nov 17, 2014
Hey all, I plan to head to the farmhouse soon. I'll take some pictures and post them with descriptions of the routes. The one problem with the farmhouse has been the bees. Please be careful as there are several nests.
Rock Climbing Photo: tmac on under where? 5.12
tmac on under where? 5.12
By jbak
Nov 29, 2014
3 hives on the north side today... kinda spooky.
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Dec 2, 2014
Are they up high? I could never see bees close to the base anywhere. But I've been called "distracted" before.
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Dec 2, 2014
By the way Todd and John... I sort of randomly assigned names to the sub-areas, because I didn't know much about this place and I wanted to make this site to get feedback from the community. If you guys have different names that you use or prefer, please let me know and I'll edit the MP entries appropriately.
By jbak
Dec 2, 2014
Luis... one hive is high up in that clean steep area on the left side of the north face. Also... 2 hives way right over by The Rookie.

The bees seem to like to find a single round hole in the otherwise cleanest, steepest rock. Probably makes them feel safe that nothing can approach easily. Smart little suckers.

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