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Statebrook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 
Berlys Arête  T 
Big Bro T 
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 
Dysphemism T 
Evil Twin T 
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 
Gary Goes Home Crying T 
Hollie's High Step T 
Inverted Englishman Direct  T 
Inverted Englishman, The T 
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 
Monsters Inc T 
Mr. Poopers T 
Mr. Poopers Backside T 
Only the Toad Knows  T 
Perverted Polishman, The T 
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 
Snake in the Crack T 
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 
Sulley's Belay T 
Sully's Success T 
Thing 1 T 
Thing 2 T 
Three Lions T 
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad  T 
Uncle Hal Direct T 
Uncle Hal's Arete T 
Unnamed Project  T 
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 
Welcome to Statebrook T 

The Far Side (Previously 10lbs) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: State Brook Team
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 13
Submitted By: Rob Upton on Jul 17, 2016

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Description 

Start underneath the roof just to the right of the Gary Goes Home Crying. Climb up the left side of the left-facing block. Grab the crack behind the block and make layback moves to the roof. Traverse out right onto the large block. Standing on the left end of the shelf, lean out to clip the bolt. Climb straight up through odd horizontals to the small crack. Climb the crack as it widens to the top. Rejoin Gary and climb the phallus to the anchor at the top.

Location 

There two climbs involve a huge block at the base of the cliff. About 20ft up there is a 2ft deep and 10ft long shelf on top of this block. For both this climb and Bipolar Express, you end up standing on the shelf.

Protection 

Trad with 1 Bolt, 2 bolt anchor/lower off


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