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The Far Right 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: George Bracksieck on May 14, 2012

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  • Description 

    On May 8, 1974, Nate Zinsser and I did a climb that began a little farther right of The Fire Down Below, up mossy, grungy rock to the only good section of this climb: a short, clean, right-leaning dihedral with a hand crack (5.8 or 9), which I led. This dihedral is strenuous because its crack overhangs to the west (up-canyon) before going vertical. It lies about 80 or more feet above the ground and is easy to see from the ground and from the highway. In the photo on p. 179 of D'Antonio's guidebook [first edition], the dotted line for route #15 ends on a large block; our short dihedral defines the right edge of said block. (D'Antonio should have drawn the line for #15 farther left, along the right-angling corner visible between two trees in that photo. The top of #15 and 16 is also a lot lower than the top of his dotted line.) Nate and I continued to trend left above, joining "Right Side." We could call our route "The Far Right."


    Begin just right of the grungy gully that is immediately right of The Fire Down Below. Climb mossy rock to reach the clean crux dihedral.


    SR: plus extra hand- and (maybe) fist-size. Climb and scramble off.

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